Other Asian

AFGHAN HORSEMEN
On news reports Afghanistan seems a dust-caked land where nothing grows but beards and AK-47s. You might not guess it’s a nation of foodies, with a cuisine as rich as its history. At the Horsemen, the past comes alive in the meals. Dolmah—made with cabbage instead of grape leaves—and salads with feta give nods to the Greeks, while the lentil-based dahl palaw pays homage to India. Afghanistan’s national dish is kabuli palaw, rice topped with sautéed carrots, raisins and almonds. The spices are mild and the food so hearty it induces post-meal comas—ask for seats in the Afghan room, with its low tables and cushions on the floor. 4202-1833 Anderson St., Second Floor, South Granville, 604-873-5923. $$-$$$

BANANA LEAF
Just about every Asian restaurant in town offers up some variation of a green bean dish, but the sambal green beans at Banana Leaf are the best around. The beans are ravishingly crisp, the sambal has infinite depth, and the shrimp and tomatoes make it a wrap. Devotees go for the signature chili crab; check ahead for availability. 1096 Denman St., West End, 604-683-3333; 820 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-731-6333; 3005 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-3005. $$

BLISS ASIAN BISTRO
On the shimmering crescent of Coal Harbour, Bliss leaves traditional izakaya influences for more international waters—a fusion of Korean and Japanese cuisines with a touch of Chinese and Thai. Dishes like chirashi (sashimi rice bowls) offers an abundance of seafood fit for two ($16-$20). Korean-style rolls—including one that combines steak, prawns, unagi, avocado and cucumber—bring a welcome twist to the traditional Japanese sushi menu ($8-$16). Navigate the menu and extensive drink list with the guidance of helpful servers, then just sit back and enjoy the near-Kyoto like experience: calming, meditative, blissful. 100-550 Denman St., Coal Harbour, 604-662-3044. $$

BOOK KYUNG BAN JEOM
Newly expanded to include a karaoke room, this otherwise tiny restaurant boasts some of the best Korean-Chinese food in the downtown core. The hearty ja jang-myun (noodles in black bean sauce with ground beef and vegetables) is moderately priced at $6.50 and the jam-bong (seafood noodle soup) has a spicy kick. Points off for slow and inconsistent service (spotted: server with lollipop in mouth), but the free side dishes, including pickled radishes and kimchi, are a tasty bonus. 1638 Robson St., West End, 604-689-3898. $-$$

CAFE KATHMANDU
Abi Sharma is a charming guide to Nepalese (and a bit of Tibetan) cuisine and culture, welcoming guests to this soothing room. The menu reflects Nepal’s multi-ethnicity and influences from neighbouring China, India and Tibet. Bhatmaas is a surprise for the palate: crunchy toasted soybeans quick-fried with minced ginger, garlic and chilies and tossed with cilantro. Main dishes are a variety of curries, more delicate than their Indian counterparts. Khasiko maasu is goat meat slow-simmered until tender in a rich curry, and kaauli is an earthy dish of turmeric-infused cauliflower with fenugreek potatoes. Finish off your meal with a steaming cup of Nepali chiyaa (chai). 2779 Commercial Dr., 604-879-9909. $$-$$$

CLOVE
Asian and Indian dishes co-mingle at this late-night tapas bar where naan and gyoza reside happily on the same menu. Cravings are best satiated with butter chicken in a rich turmeric cream and candied almonds ($15), or the pad Thai, with snapper and prawn, in a spicy tamarind peanut sauce ($15). It’s not so much fusion cuisine as it is global, with dishes that remain true to their ethnic heritage; the chai crème brûlée ($6) are the delightful exceptions. The rectangular room features intimate tables for couples, while a long bar works for locals and late night service industry crowd. 2054 Commercial Dr., 604-255-5550. $$

CUCINA MANILA
Gauging from the lineup out the door for post-Mass Sunday lunch, the Filipino food served at this small eatery is the real deal. Cucina Manila’s $6 combination plate with rice and two entrées is an absolute steal. Few things pair better with rice than sweet, garlicky Bulacan longganisa (thumb-sized pork sausages) except, perhaps, for crispy pata, pork hock that’s first simmered and then quick-fried to a crackling crisp. Top marks for the pancit guisado: a well-seasoned mix of rice and egg noodles, julienned carrots and beans, red bell peppers, Chinese sausage, chicken, pork and shrimp. 5179 Joyce St., Kingsway, 604-435-4508. $

DAN SUNG SA
Downtown but away from the pack—movie posters and Korean celeb photos proclaim a friendly spot that targets the young. Wooden booths complete the Korean Happy Days atmosphere. 1221 Thurlow St., West End, 604-609-7095. $-$$

E-HWA
E-Hwa bills itself as a Korean-Japanese izakaya, the Japanese term for cheap and cheerful diner/pubs and a favourite local genre. This one definitely skews more Korean. A large screen playing videos of Korean pop stars and loud music make it a popular hangout for a younger clientele. Solid lineup of Korean specialties and a few Japanese faves as well. 1578 Robson, West End, 604-688-1322. $-$$

THE FLYING TIGER
James Iranzad and Mark Durland, the Kits-focussed duo, have completely redone the tired Living Room space on Fourth Avenue. The feel is darker and younger with plenty of Pan-Asian motifs. To wrangle the concept of Asian street food, they’ve brought in the very talented Tina Fineza (ex-George and Bins) to consult, with palate-kicking results. Bold flavours abound in the 24-hour marinated kalba Korean ribs and the Filipino-style pork belly redolent of garlic, soy, cane vinegar and star anise. Don’t leave until you’ve tried the hawker-style street noodles: crispy chicken, squid, prawns in spicy nam prik pao and oyster sauce. The list of sakes and sojus is excellent, but the cocktails are entry level. Short wine list full of food friendly off-dry whites. Scroll of Asian beers superb. 2958 W. 4th Ave, Kitsilano, 604-736-4426. $$

GALING GALING
Located at the hub of several cross-town transit routes, Galing Galing is a convenient stop for Filipino fare on the run. A “turo-turo” style eatery, where you “point-point” to what you want. Combination plates are a bargain diner’s best bet: $5.50 is a steal for chicken soup, rice and an entrée like igado, a savoury pork stew. Lumpia sariwa makes an ideal light meal: julienned vegetables and heart of palm, wrapped in a soft crêpe and drizzled with a sweet garlicky sauce. Add some Filipino tang to home-cooked meals and grab a jar of atchara to go, a pickled mix of green papaya, carrots, ginger and bell peppers. 1537 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-736-8877. $

HAL MAE JANG MO JIB
The name translates roughly as Mother-in-Law’s place, and the most popular location sits right in the heart of the unofficial Korean zone, a growing concentration of Korean restaurants on the westernmost stretch of Robson. Line-ups testify to its status as a top haunt for swarms of Korean students. The menu is varied, offering plenty of Korean favourites like seafood pancakes and noodles, as well as more exotic fare like pork-spine stew. The service can be spotty, especially at peak times. 1719 Robson St., West End, 604-642-0712; 518 Richards St., Downtown, 604-688-0712; 395 Kingsway, 604- 872-0712. $$

HAWKER'S DELIGHT
Authentic Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine and ridiculously inexpensive. The mee goreng, fried noodle with egg, bean sprouts, tofu and diced potatoes, is a wonder at just $4.25 a plate. Everything is made from scratch, such as the lamb in a rich coconut-milk-based curry, and the simple set-up “keeps the overhead down,” says owner Annie Tan. Possibly the best cheap eats in town. 4127 Main St., South Main, 604-709-8188. $

JOSEPHINE'S
There’s often a lineup during prime time at this popular cafeteria-style Filipino restaurant, and for good reason: Josephine’s budget-conscious combination plate is a remarkable bargain. For just $7.75, it’s a palate-awakening bowl of sinigang na bangus (a sour tamarind-based soup with milkfish and a green-chili kick) and rice, together with two entrées of your choice. Try the lechon paksiw, a sweet and sour stew of roasted pork slow-simmered in seasonings including vinegar, soy sauce and lechon sauce. And don’t skip dessert: their creamy cassava cake is well worth a Lipitor or two. 2650 Main St., South Main, 604-876-8785. $-$$

MEKONG HOUSE
An easy blend of Thai, Vietnamese and French cooking collaborates in this pleasant little French-doored room, a regular haunt for locals and in-the-know tourists. The variety of food generated from the tiny kitchen is astounding: go for the green papaya salad and spicy calamari for starters, then the seafood clay pot and pad Thai. Whole tilapia rates highly, as do spring rolls. 1414 Commercial Dr., 604-253-7088. $$

THE NOODLE BOX
A recent import from Victoria, this South-East Asian noodle house hips it up with high ceilings, cool music and a straightforward, one-dimensional food concept: fast, flavour-forward noodles served in classic Chinese takeout boxes. The soy and ginger-washed egg noodles with crushed cashews and prawns (Thai chow mein) is just one of many variations. Stay in or take away, you’ll likely return even if the wok-handlers failed remedial spice school: medium means incandescent here. Counter service is stroller-friendly. 1867 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-1310. $$

NORBOO
A university student hang out, with loud Korean pop and rap blaring in the background, scruffy tables and underwhelming service. But no matter—the Sashimi Bibimbap is a real winner of fresh bright seafood served over warm rice. The L.A. style kalbi (three boned thinly sliced rib meat) is generously portioned and glazed with fruity sweetness. The big attraction here is the Korean-style hot pots—huge cauldrons of bubbling spicy soup in which raw meat and/or seafood are cooked down and then slurped up with rice and kimchee. Bring your appetite and some friends—the hot pots easily feed two to four people. 1536 Robson St., West End, 604-806-0369. $

PINPIN RESTAURANT
Awash in a sea of loonie stores, Pinpin’s red awning beckons—think busy, casual and a broad selection of Filipino-Chinese plates popular with expats. Large family-style platters feed families on the cheap. Lumpia shanghai to start, finger-sized pork ($4.50 for 12) and vegetable spring rolls served with sweet chili dipping sauce. Follow with garlic rice and embotido ($6.95), the Filipino version of meatloaf. Or skip straight to dessert and dive into a bowl of special halo-halo ($2.95), a “mix-mix” of sweet beans and tropical fruit topped with shaved ice, milk and ice cream. Closed Mondays. 6113 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-322-3086. $$

PONDOK INDONESIA
Awaken your palate with tahu sayur isi, pyramids of vegetable-stuffed tofu deep-fried to crispy perfection and served with a light peanut dipping sauce. Laksa ayam is soft and warming—rich coconut-curry broth with rice noodles, chicken, prawns and bean sprouts. Ricetable specials, plenty for two to share, combine favourite dishes like ayam panggang (Indonesian-style BBQ chicken) and rendang sapi (tender braised beef in a dark coconut curry). 2781 Commercial Dr., 604-872-8718. $$-$$$

RED DOOR PAN ASIAN GRILL
Heavy lacquer, sexy music and dim lights could double as a nightclub if not for the wok-based Pan Asian fare. Must-have the Vietnamese “Shaking Beef”—10 oz melting beef tenderloin with black pepper lime sauce and perfectly spiced, crisp Szechuan beans on the side. Everything is made in-house, right down to the refreshing ginger ice cream. Authentic recipes in pad Thai and green papaya salad. Service commendable. 2996 Granville St., South Granville, 604-733-5699. $$$

REKADOS
Chef Charlie Dizon elevates Filipino cuisine to a level surpassing homey and comfortable in this sleek, stylish room. The uninitiated can sip on a calamansi mojito while a friendly server guides them through the seamless mélange of Malaysian, Spanish and Chinese influences. Tops of the small plates are sweet kamote fries with hot banana ketchup and calamansi mayo and tokwa’t tokwa, deep-fried tofu like no other, served in a soy-chili sauce and sprinkled with toasted garlic and shallots. Save room for the sweets, especially the duo of warm toffee cake and turon, a light spring roll with banana and jackfruit. 4063 Main St., South Main, 604-873-3133. $$-$$$

SANDY'S CUISINE
Owner and cooking-show host Sandy Daza warmly welcomes to his bright, modest restaurant. Traditional Filipino fare is served in steam-table cafeteria fashion, and menu offerings rotate regularly; this is known as turo-turo or “point-point”—diners simply point at different dishes to indicate choices. Pandan chicken is a top pick: chunks of marinated chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves that add subtle flavour while grilling. If it’s spice that you’re after, order the Bicol Express. Daza’s version of this pork stew with green chilies and coconut milk has a deep, rich heat. 4186 Main St., South Main, 604-677-4807. $-$$

SEOUL DOOKBAEGI
Large communal tables bespeak the popularity of this casual spot for family dining. Tuck into a bowl of Kimchi Jigae, kimchi stew with pork and vegetables served bubbling on a burner. Haemool pajun is the Korean equivalent of okonomiyaki, a golden pancake of assorted seafood that’s crisp-fried but tender on the inside. Served sizzling on a cast-iron platter, jeyuk bokum is pork and vegetables stir-fried in a spicy house sauce. Wash it all down with a bottle of Hite, Korean beer that helps to douse the flames. 1031 Kingsway, South Main, 604-879-1515 $$

SEOUL HOUSE ROYAL
Pass on the Japanese menu and go straight for classic Korean dishes. The premium barbecue dinner of short ribs comes with a huge array of condiments: wrap the meat in a lettuce leaf with a whole garlic clove (cooked or raw) and miso paste. Or try the bibimbap: vegetables or meat with rice cooked till just tender in a stone pot that retains the flavour of each item. 1215 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-738-8285. $$$

SINGAPORE RESTAURANT
The major attraction here is the price (it’s cheap!), but the food tastes pretty good too. A blend of Chinese, Malaysian and Indonesian flavours make for tasty curries and satays, with predominant ingredients being peanuts, coconut and chilies. Huge bowls of char kuey teow—flat noodles with shrimp, pork or vegetarian options—stream out of the tiny back kitchen. You decide how high on the chili scale to go: one star for mild to an incandescent five stars. 546 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-874-6161. $

SPICE ALLEY
If full-contact shopping along Robson Street has left your stomach grumbling, Spice Alley is an easy pit stop for fiery Korean fare. The vibe is decidedly casual, the decor an eclectic mix of traditional and kitsch. Menu descriptions are anglicized: L.A. cut beef short ribs, better known as kalbi, arrive on a sizzling hot plate—marinated in soy sauce, sake and dried green tea leaves, they’re deliciously caramelized but still tender. Spicy chili chicken is a house special—sweet, piquant and sticky, it’s finger-licking good. 1333 Robson St., West End, 604-685-4468. $$

SPICE ISLANDS
Awash in a palate of greens and greys, this tranquil room welcomes you with hushed tones and warm, attentive service. Chef/owner Joseph Boon’s Indonesian fare is rich and flavourful, infused with Indian, Arabic, Spanish, Dutch and Chinese influences. Martabak is a crispy, flaky variant of the beef samosa, a textural contrast to the lush softness of opor ayam, chicken in a delicate white curry. Quench your thirst with coconut water served still in the husk—with or without a shot of rum, it’ll help dial down the heat. Spek koek with rambutan sorbet is a light, sweet way to round out your meal; also known as Lapis Legit, it’s the Indonesian take on the Dutch multi-layered butter cake. 3592 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-7355. $$-$$$

TROPIKA
Detail has gone into both the room and the food, a neat blend of southeast Asian cuisines featuring mainly Thai-, Malaysian- and Indonesian-inspired dishes. The chicken satay is exceptional with a side of peanut sauce, mopped with fluffy roti bread. The spicy chili clams, Dungeness crab and lobster in special house sauce are equally good; order them with the house vermicelli. 1128 Robson St., West End, 604-737-6002. $$-$$$

WESTENDER KOREAN RESTAURANT
If a Korean restaurant’s authenticity is measured by the amount of soju served, then a room full of tipsy Korean students makes this dinner-only barbecue spot as true as it gets. The flavourful pork belly house-special ($9.95)—slices of pork grilled at the table and eaten with spicy condiments in a fresh lettuce wrap—is the only dish available before 9 p.m., but paired with a bottle of the aforementioned rice wine ($12.95 per bottle) it easily satisfies. Service until 2 a.m. gives ample opportunity to sample their full menu (and drink more soju). 854 Denman St., West End, 604-693-2322. $-$$

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