Other European

ACCENTS
Do nice guys really finish last? This Broadway restaurant is nice to a fault, right down to offering the cuisine of no less than 18 countries for diners who can’t make up their mind. A good strategy is to focus on the Russian offerings, such as the bujenina (roast pork with sochi and horseradish for $6.99) or the blinis ($6.99), which are both faithfully executed. The niceness continues right to the odd, but spectacularly priced wine list which features a Tignanello 1998 for $100, a wine whose current vintage is only 4 dollars less at your local BC Liquor store. For more modest budgets the serviceable Pinot Noir from Cono Sur is only $20. 1967 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-6660. $$-$$$

ADEGA
Since opening their doors in 1972, brothers Dennis and Manual Resendes have been schooling Vancouverites on the rustic country cooking of their native Portugal. Ostensibly peasant food, this is hearty, flavourful fare. Start with the caldo verde ($3.05), a traditional soup of potato, onion and finely shredded kale, before moving into the hefty carne alentejana ($16.75). In the Portuguese custom of blending fish and meat in the same dish, these are cubes of marinated pork, served over a steaming bowl of cilantro-scented clams and spicy Adega fries. The decor is charmingly outdated, but with the familial service, generous portions, and a few glasses of the refreshing vinho verde (spritzy Portuguese green wine) you’ll hardly notice. 1022 Main St., Chinatown, 604-685-7818. $$

LA BODEGA
An authentic tapas bar, bar one exception: instead of revving up at midnight, the doors are likely to close by 11. Vancouver versus Barcelona, in a nutshell. Crouton-heavy gazpacho Andaluz, fiery patatas bravas and hearty albondigas (Spanish meatballs) are all standouts on a comprehensive menu. The decor hasn’t changed since the joint opened in 1971, but then again, neither have the regulars holding up the rec-room style bar. 1277 Howe St., Downtown, 604-684-8814. $-$$

BUDAPEST RESTAURANT
Hungarian food is comfort food, and Miro and Sonia Fabian serve up bowlfuls of goulash and cheer in this small, warm bistro. Start with lángos, highly addictive deep-fried bread rubbed with sliced garlic, served with sour cream for dipping. Pork schnitzel is outstanding and softly flavoured chicken paprikás are simmered in quality paprika and sour cream; pair it with cucumber salad. Book some room for somloi galuska, Hungary’s decadent version of tiramisu, or the vanilla goodness of a krémes slice. 3250 Main St., South Main, 604-877-1949. $$-$$$

CASA VERDE
Walk through the door on any given evening and you’ll find the room abuzz with lively Portuguese conversation as families gather. Try the lulas grelhadas for a meal opener, beautifully tender squid that is first grilled and then pan-fried in garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. Refreshing vinho verde to accompany the carne de porco alentejana, a mélange of pan-fried marinated pork cubes, chourico slices and steamed clams tossed together in a garlicky house sauce, and like Portuguese poutine, ladled over a rumpus of homemade fries. Cash only. 3532 Commercial St., 604-876-7647. $$

CHAMBAR
Lit in lusty red, with exposed brick, wood beam ceilings and contemporary artwork, this stylish space is sheer eye candy, but Belgian owner/chef Nico Schuerman keeps the focus where it belongs—on the food. Aromatic moules frites ($19) in savoury broths delight, and the braised lamb tagine ($25) is a study in dribble-down-the-chin succulence. Innovative hand crafted cocktails and an enticing list of Belgian brews fuel the licentious revelry. 562 Beatty St., Downtown, 604-879-7119. $$-$$$

DENTRY'S IRISH GRILL
Dublin, St. Paddy and tandoori chicken burgers. Okay, so a typical tight-assed North American might question the appearance of the Indian subcontinent on an Irish menu. Creep into this cave-like eatery, order a bowl of Irish stew with Gulf Island lamb ($11.99) and a pint of Guinness, then one pint Harp, then one of Kilkenny. Repeat if necessary. If you complain about this not being a culinary destination then you have utterly missed the point. Sláinte. 4450 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-224-3434. $$

DOOLIN'S IRISH PUB
At his rich dark room with its wooden tables, stained glass and Celtic drinking songs getting lucky means finding a barstool—this watering hole overflows like a badly poured Guinness. The menu is standard pub grub: kilt-clad waitresses serve steak and kidney pie ($10.99) and traditional Irish stew ($9.99) to a diverse crowd. 654 Nelson St., Downtown, 604-605-4365. $-$$

IRISH HEATHER
Dark wood benches and rickety high stools in the front section of this gastro pub aren’t built for comfort, but the Irish Heather is about as authentic an Irish pub as you’ll find this side of the pond. Hearty and satisfying grub, especially the Guinness pot pie. On the lighter side, equally good is the puck of warmed goat cheese salad crusted with orange relish. You can mix your Guinness with black currant or cider here, but that, we think, is an impure thought. The Heather, plus siblings Shebeen and Salty Tongue, will be moving across the street in early spring 2008. 217 Carrall St., Gastown, 604-688-9779. $$

LION'S PUB
Ex-pat Brits steer here for well-handled fish and chips ($14) and bangers and mash ($10.50). Big-screens and a great selection of beers, whiskeys and (surprise) martinis make this a hit with the after-work crowd. Saturday and Sunday you’ll get great value with 7-oz steaks—prepped several ways—for a loss leading $11. 888 W. Cordova St., Coal Harbour, 604-488-8602. $$

SENHOR ROOSTER
Chef Daniel Alexandre blends the flavours of his Portuguese heritage with those of his birthplace, Angola. The menu at this warm, casual neighbourhood restaurant features a lineup of well-executed Portuguese dishes: perfectly crisped pasteis de bacalhau (cod and potato fritters) and fiery prawns piri piri are two standouts. The specials board announces intriguing counterpoints, such as Dungeness crab cakes with beurre blanc and blueberry sauce. Finish on your feet with mango mousse or a flambé of blueberries in house-made liqueur. 850 Renfrew St., East Side, 604-434-1010. $$-$$$

SENOVA
Senova is owner Manuel Ferreira’s love song, a homesick look back to his native land. And the food—paella, salt cod, and suckling pig—is a worthy paean to the sun-filled place. Ferreira, who also owns Le Gavroche, has filled his bins with a broad selection of Iberian bottles, many at decent prices. The room is cosy, the crowd equal parts Crofton House PTA meeting and inbound YVR passengers. 1864 W. 57th Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-8643. $$$

TRANSYLVANIA FLAVOUR
This home-style European restaurant, in a new location on Broadway near Arbutus, is a welcome alternative to West Coast mantra. Lunch includes a selection of salads such as yam ($8) or spinach with beets and feta ($8), as well as kielbasa on a pretzel bun ($9) and plates of chicken or pork schnitzel ($10). The dinner menu expands to include entrées like walnut-coated trout ($18) and chicken paprikash ($18). The house-made perogies ($10), filled with smoked gouda, yam and caraway, are delicious. The room is appealingly old-fashioned and service friendly. 2120 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-730-0880. $-$$

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