Seafood

BLUE WATER CAFE
East and West worship at dual, dueling altars in this Yaletown seafood temple. Raw aficionados can choose sushi by Yoshi Tabo or a staggering selection of oysters. On the cooked side, executive chef Frank Pabst does the unexpected with sustainably sourced halibut with nigella seeds, capers and raisins ($34.50), and sablefish with tamarind-orange reduction ($35.50) as well as tasting portions of “Unsung Heroes” like sardine in escabeche and mackerel with beets ($18.50/person). Groups can never go wrong with the giant, iced towers of gorgeously fresh, unadorned shellfish (2 tier $78, 3 tier $138). Sommelier of the Year Chris Van Nus, whose expertise extends to saké pairings, has a new private wine room, seating up to 80, to preside over this fall. 1095 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-688-8078. $$$-$$$$

C RESTAURANT
The astounding patio views—the busy marinas of False Creek paint the foreground, while the Burrard Bridge frames the setting sun—reveal watershed seafood cookery. Executive chef Robert Clark and restaurant chef Quang Dang are champions of sustainable raw product, made definitive in their hands (they know just when to get out of the way of their prime ingredients): outsized Kagan Bay scallops with gold potatoes and radish, or seared Nass River salmon with warm summer squash tart, herbed sourdough crumb, and eggplant purée and the pan-seared sablefish, pork belly crusted potatoes, braised arugula, and brown butter concentrate, reveals the sea just outside. C’s fish-friendly wine program dexterously marries vine to plate—and budget. 1600 Howe St., False Creek, 604-681-1164. $$$-$$$$

THE CANNERY
Port security measures haven’t made it any easier to access this local icon, but 36 years on, the Cannery continues to thrive. Impeccable service—most of the staff has been here over 20 years—is reason alone to overcome any obstacles. Chef Frederic Couton’s showstopper (he recently published an elegant cookbook) is a sublime smoked black cod, perfectly poached on a pool of lemon chive butter with wild mushrooms. Sophisticated wine list reads like a short novel. 2205 Commissioner St., Port of Vancouver, 604-254-9606. $$$-$$$$

COAST
Book a seat at Chef Sean Riley’s tasting table ($70) and watch one of Vancouver’s most talented chefs go to work, using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Though seafood is the star of both the tasting and à la carte menus—try the succulent king crab legs with gnocchi ($31) or the 7-spiced ahi tuna ($30)—don’t underestimate the beef tenderloin ($32) which is poached to perfection in red wine. The dessert menu is also seasonal, but try the decadent peanut butter bar if you can get it—Reese’s can only dream of being this good. 1257 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-685-5010. $$$

FINEST AT SEA
Tucked away in Kerrisdale, this three-in-one fishmonger, gourmet deli, and bistro offers arguably the best fish n’ chips this side of the pond. Chef Jordan McLean serves only sustainable B.C. seafood: salmon has a classic British no-fuss batter and is served with seasoned fries, tartar sauce and slaw ($8 for one piece; $11.50 for two); crab cakes provide a lighter—though still satisfying—lunch served with sweet chili mayo and greens ($11). Bisque is a bargain at only $4 a bowl. Great for a casual lunch or early dinner (Closes at 8:00 p.m. on most days). 4675 Arbutus St., Kerrisdale, 604-266-1904. $

FISH CAFE
Concept: Simple grilled seafood, cod and chips, and a standout burger. Already celebrated in Kerrisdale, Fish Café recently opened a location in Kitsilano—and the Fourth Avenue stroll is better for this brave little room, decorated by a decorous host. The cuisine is honest and determinedly local—we hope the locals find it. 2053 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-267-3474; 2278 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-3474. $$

THE FISH HOUSE IN STANLEY PARK
Popular place in the heart of Stanley Park to take out-of-towners seeking a room with a view revealed in shades of green. Sunday brunch is popular—reserve ahead, and revel in ricotta pancakes or smoked salmon bennies. Dinner should include oysters and a starter of prawns in a roast red pepper, feta cheese, and tomato sauce, flamed-to-order tableside ($14.95). Continue the seafood theme with a cedar-planked trout ($27.95) or chili sablefish ($28.75) or switch to chicken saltimbocca ($21.95). New ownership has left things unchanged in the capable hands of chef Karen Barnaby. Menu changes seasonally, so check the website for details. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., Stanley Park, West End, 604-681-7275. $$$-$$$$

GO FISH
Salmon tacos might sound the alarm for traditionalists, but at this False Creek seafood shack on the western approach to Granville Island, they’re very good. A construct of smoky tortilla, grilled wild salmon, side-stripe shrimp mayonnaise and fresh salsa, they’re still redolent of the sea. They should be: the fisherman who caught the main ingredient berths beside the restaurant’s year-round patio. Tempura-battered cod (or halibut or salmon) and chips are the city’s best, and simple grilled seafood (order an extra side of the tangy tartare sauce) are well worth the salty seawall walk. Unlicensed, and the weekend lines can be fierce. 1504 W. 1st Ave., False Creek, 604-730-5040. $-$$

JOE FORTES
Vancouver’s premier oyster bar, where 300,000 bivalves are shucked and sucked each year, is still showing us how it’s done. The three-tiered seafood tower ($145) is the stuff of legend, but Chef Scott Pratico’s screamingly fresh line-caught seafood and grilled-to-perfection steaks and chops keep up. The horseshoe-shaped bar is a lively meeting place (thankfully the drinks are more creative than the pick-up lines you’ll likely overhear), where getting lucky often means finding a seat. Stellar service is cheerily captained and the heated roof top patio is open all year long. 777 Thurlow St., West End, 604-669-1940. $$$-$$$$ Joefortes.ca

A KETTLE OF FISH
The interior has been updated, and they’ve installed a lounge where it’s comfortable for after-work drinks. The menu is designed, of course, around seafood. To start there’s salmon three ways ($11) and chilled antipasto of squid ($9). The prawn pappardelle ($20) is tasty, or go for seared big eye tuna ($28), or cioppino ($24). Most dishes are OceanWise approved. The service is friendly here and thought has been put into the martini, scotch and wine list. 900 Pacific Ave., False Creek, 604-682-6661. $$-$$$

KING'S FARE FISH AND CHIPS
An old-style English fish-and-chip restaurant where plates of fresh and tender cod or halibut ($8.95-$16.95) are heaped high; scallops, prawns and oysters ($16.95) are a lighter option but just as tasty. Wait staff are quick and cheerful, but expect to share a table if you eat in. Or take advantage of the South Van location: hop over to the picnic tables near YVR and enjoy your meal as you watch the planes go by. 1320 W. 73rd Ave., South Vancouver, 604-266-3474. $-$$
Rodney’s Oyster House A no-nonsense fishing shack dedicated to the glories of bivalves. Flirty countermen work their magic on cougars and west end boys, shucking up to 5,000 oysters a week (and as many as 12 varieties) in this romp room. Chowders, crab, lobster, clams, even beefy steaks for landlubbers, round out the menu. 1228 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-609-0080. $$-$$$

THE SHORE CLUB
The newest and most expensive restaurant in the David Aisenstat empire sits pretty on the corner of Dunsmuir and Granville. It’s just as busy as the new Holt Renfrew across the street and is just a few cow lengths from his premier steakhouse, Gotham. Designer Elaine Thorsell has put together a multi-storied beauty with a classic ocean liner look, complete with white-jacketed service staff, lush fabrics, dark colours (blues and greens evocative of warm evenings at sea), and grey-veined Bianca Carrera marble. The food? Little we haven’t tried before—it’s tight, well executed, and highly unoriginal. Must tries include a macadamia nut-encrusted monster fillet of halibut ($31) served simply and immaculately with only a chive beurre blanc (sides are extra) and a miraculous puff pastry-encased salmon Wellington ($29) that melts on contact. The wine list is deeply stacked, as is the service. 688 Dunsmuir St., Downtown, 604-899-4400. $$$$

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