South Cambie
ARROY-D
THAI RESTAURANT
Simple decor, a striking central wooden dining area,
and a downtown vista provide a welcome diversion from
Cambie Street’s clatter. Lunch specials are a
cost-effective way to sample the kitchen’s skill
($5.99-$8.99). Try the gang kaew warn (green curry;
$9.99) or the praram long srong (spinach with chicken
and peanut sauce; $9.99). Outstanding soups and the
pad Thai ($11.99) are aromatic and pungent, fresh and
balanced—just as Thai food should be. 3106
Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-879-9944. $-$$
CHAO PHRAYA
Authentic Thai cuisine outshines the weirdly Mediterranean
interior at Chao Phraya. Choice lead-ins are green mango
and papaya salad or larb gai, minced chicken meat sautéed
with shallots, toasted rice, roasted chilies and a healthy
dose of cilantro. Though gaeng keow-wan (green curry
with eggplant and green beans) is said to top the heat
meter, give your server a nudge and they’ll knock
the capsaicin count through the roof. 2325 Cambie
St., South Cambie, 604-732-3939 $$-$$$
FIGMINT
The aesthetes behind Glowbal, Coast and Sanafir midwifed
this sleek 180-seat room. Slate and banquettes (with
Paul Smith fabric) are topped with iconic “cloud”
lights by Frank Gehry in an open dining room, while
the lounge sees a white quartz bar sitting a mix of
staid hotel guests and scenesters sipping from next-generation
cocktails. Chef Lee Humphries’ steady, Euro-focussed
hand in the kitchen impresses further. Lunch might offer
a superb burger laid thick with English cheddar and
pancetta, or a bitingly creamy risotto with fresh peas
and asparagus, but the real treats arrive after dark:
salvos of sunchoke and Riesling soup with saffron-braised
veal cheeks are plated with corn purée and pine
nut butter, (order a side of minted peas). Service,
black clad and all business, runs tight. 500 W.
12th Ave., South Cambie, 604-875-3312. $$$
HENRY'S
KITCHEN
A new location, sandwiched between a bank and a laser
dental clinic, still rewards the intrepid diner with
honest-to-goodness, and budget conscious, French and
Italian standards. Henry makes everything from scratch;
creative daily specials showcase fresh seasonal seafood,
and the extensive menu ranges from beef striploin with
bone marrow shallot reduction ($22.95) to a slow-braised
lamb osso buco with wild mushroom risotto ($19.95).
Grilled calamari steak with mango papaya salsa and crisp
papadam ($11.95) is a winner. Finish with Henry’s
irresistible cheesecake with brandied blueberries ($5.95).
904 W. King Edward Ave., South Cambie, 604-738-9883.
$$
KIRIN
MANDARIN/KIRIN SEAFOOD
City Square mall finds Cantonese-style cuisine focused
on daily delivered seafood. Kirin specializes in banquets
at a cost of $398-888 for a table of 10, but ordering
à la carte is also viable. Tops is the “gold
and silver lobster”—a whole lobster stir-fried
with veggies, its legs deep-fried with rock salt and
pepper. Service here is attentive and the city view—temporarily
marred by condo cranes—breathtaking. 2nd Floor,
555 W. 12th Ave., South Cambie, 604-879-8038; also 102-1166
Alberni St., West End, 604-682-8833; 2nd Floor, 7900
Westminster Hwy., Richmond, 604-303-8833. $$$-$$$$
LANDMARK HOT POT HOUSE
Vancouver’s first Chinese hot pot restaurant,
where DIY traditionally warms body and soul on long
wintry nights, is now an all-season affair. And at Landmark,
it’s unrivalled in quality. Picture prime ingredients
like live spot prawns, geoduck, lobsters and house-made
seafood meatballs. Dip them in a dozen soup stocks,
ranging from fiery Szechuan mercilessly spiked with
chilies and fagara to sweet-savoury-nutty satay or a
clear broth perfumed with ginger and mushrooms. The
seafood combination, which includes a substantial platter
of meats, seafood, vegetables and cellophane noodles,
is a good start. House-made dumplings also recommended.
4023 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-872-2868. $$
RICH OCEAN SEAFOOD
Seafood is the focus, obviously, so order either crab
or lobster prepared with a choice of sauces like creamy
onion or ginger and green onion. Ask that they be served
on a bed of e-fu noodles, which will soak up all the
delicious flavours. Be adventurous and order the deep
fried chicken “knees”, small chicken nuggets
with bits of cartilage for textural crunch. The complimentary
red bean dessert was a real highlight—house made
(rather than from mixes that most restaurants use) with
whole, tender red beans and pungent citrus peel. Dim
sum service is also a stand out. 108-777 W. Broadway,
South Cambie, 604-876-8388. $$$
SALA
THAI
Som Tum (salad of green papaya, chilies and lime, $7.99),
golden shrimp cakes ($7.99), and Gaeng Pa-nang: sautéed
tiger prawns, scallops, coconut meat and kaffir lime
leaves in a fiery red curry ($9.99) are as authentic
as they come. Terrific value at lunch and daily specials.
Cambie location has been a neighborhood fixture for
over 20 years, but the opulent downtown room also delivers
consumate curries and pad Thai. 102-888 Burrard
St., Downtown, 604-683-7999; 3364 Cambie St., South
Cambie, 604-875-6999. $$-$$$
SEASONS
IN THE PARK
Take a walk through the Bloedel Floral Conservatory
and the blooming beds, then evacuate to the shady back
patio or sunny western side to partake of chef Buddy
Wolfe’s confident if high-volume offerings. Find
pan-seared wild salmon with kaffir lime and lemongrass
butter sauce ($23), or miso soy marinated black cod
with pineapple chive vinaigrette ($25). Don’t
leave without a slice of the signature sunburnt lemon
pie. Popular brunch spot for large groups—try
the Hunan pork sandwich. Queen Elizabeth Park, W.
33rd Ave. at Cambie, South Cambie, 604-874-8008. $$$-$$$$
SHIRO
This tiny spot illustrates how good our Japanese neighbourhood
restaurants can be. Habitués aim for seats at
the sushi bar, where owner Shiro Okano cheerfully holds
court as he deconstructs fish with his cleaver. Expect
fresh sushi, good gyoza and amazing deep-fried squid.
3096 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-874-0027. $-$$
SPICES
Artful black-and-white photographs showcasing the people
and architecture of Vietnam grace the deep red walls
of this casual Cambie Street spot. Tune out the muzak
and focus on flavourful entrées like drunken
prawns marinated in spiced wine and sautéed in
a buttery garlic-citron sauce, or pan-fried pomfret
fragrant with grated lemongrass. Combination plates
offer a taste of everything for the indecisive, and
banh mi—the Vietnamese equivalent of a sub sandwich—is
ideal for lunch on the go. 3446 Cambie St., South
Cambie, 604-876-6618. $$
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