South Granville

AFGHAN HORSEMEN
On news reports Afghanistan seems a dust-caked land where nothing grows but beards and AK-47s. You might not guess it’s a nation of foodies, with a cuisine as rich as its history. At the Horsemen, the past comes alive in the meals. Dolmah—made with cabbage instead of grape leaves—and salads with feta give nods to the Greeks, while the lentil-based dahl palaw pays homage to India. Afghanistan’s national dish is kabuli palaw, rice topped with sautéed carrots, raisins and almonds. The spices are mild and the food so hearty it induces post-meal comas—ask for seats in the Afghan room, with its low tables and cushions on the floor. 4202-1833 Anderson St., Second Floor, South Granville, 604-873-5923. $$-$$$

BIN 942
A busy space that draws diners in nightly with blasting tunes and innovative share plates. Chef/owner Gord Martin travels the globe (most recently to Morocco) and updates the menu accordingly. For meat lovers, the lamb sirloin with handmade eggplant agnolotti ($15) proves tender, as is the beef tenderloin phyllo wellington in a mustard marsala glaze ($15). There are also mussels done three ways ($13), black cod ($15) for seafood fans, as well as various veggie options. Don’t miss the Navajo fry bread with black olive houmous ($7), or the decadent fondue ($13). Compact but well-selected wine list. Late closing (2 a.m.) sees post-shift industry crowd. 1521 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-734-9421. $$

BIZOU BISTRO
Angela Sue’s sexy Mediterranean room, black, purple and butter-yellow with white linen-covered tables, is all about ambience. Start with the salmon cake with ginger-cilantro aïoli. Best in show? Pancetta and mushroom risotto with asiago cheese, or mussels with chorizo, Thai peppers and tomato sauce. Well structured wine list features B.C. wines, very reasonable mark-ups. 2666 Granville St., South Granville, 604-730-9766. $$-$$$

BOGART'S CHOPHOUSE AND BAR
Handsome, snug room features extensive beer and wine lists, sturdy cocktails and a winning way—far more than many neighbourhood steakhouses could hope to aspire to. The starters, well-made: calamari, oysters, and Caesar salads lead to grills of sirloin, New York strips, rib-eyes and chops. The prices range from $20 to $32 and the wine list has an ample selection in the $30 to $45 range. But the real hook: the jazz evenings from Thursday to Sunday, when the music of local and imported artists rings out over West Broadway. 1619 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-733-4141. $$-$$$

BRIDGES
The fave of every prairie visitor who touches down in lotusland for a long weekend getaway. Have their signature smoked salmon pizza ($22), very wet coast, and for those with more highbrow tastes there’s a pleasantly tart Digby scallop ceviche ($15). But if investing our life savings in Planet Hollywood taught us anything it’s to be careful how highbrow you go in a place that sells T-shirts. Stick to the basics (the patio and pub) and this stalwart will steer you gently into the waiting sunset. New mixed drinks and long martini list. 1696 Duranleau St., South Granville, 604-687-4400. $$

CAFE CREPE
These busy little locations offer Parisian-style crêpes, hot dogs and baguette sandwiches fast and fresh. Hungry shoppers and on-the-fly moviegoers dig into variety of hot savoury crêpes like the spinach and feta ($7) or the Europa ham and Swiss ($6.25). Or satisfy a sweet tooth with Café Crêpe’s specialty, a warm crêpe stuffed with Nutella, Grand Marnier and banana ($8.95). Now with a new location at UBC. 1032 Robson St., Downtown, 604.488.0045; 874 Granville St., Downtown, 604-806-0845; 2861 Granville St., South Granville, 604-488-1326; 796 Granville St., Downtown, 604-806-0834; 5960 University Blvd., UBC, 604-221-1142. $-$$

CAFE SALADE DE FRUITS
No squeeze-bottle chicanery or foo foo garnishes: find rustic French bistro food stripped of all pretension. Frenetic open kitchen dishes hearty classics cheaply: mussels and salty frites ($15.99) or canard confit ($16.99), buttery and crisp. The charmingly inelegant decor and friendly service are as unassuming as the food, and choosing the wine is easy—rouge or blanc. Ample three-course table d’hôte ($21.99) changes weekly. Cash only. 1551 W. 7th Ave., South Granville, 604-714-5987. $$

CAFFE BARNEY
Be prepared to line up for weekend brunch; the portions are worth it. The room is funky, worn and at times noisy, the food straight ahead and well prepared: burgers, soups, chicken Caesar salads and such. The prices, the music and the vibe appeal to a hip young clientele. Good draft beer and quality coffees. 2975 Granville St., South Granville, 604-731-6446. $-$$

CHOW
Jean-Christophe Poirier’s hefty resume (Lumière, C, Toqué) pays homage to regional cuisine torqued with hard-won technique. Poirier stakes locality and the seasons in openers ($9-15) of B.C. oysters with parsley oil and celery foam, and mains ($19-22) such as Sloping Hills Farm organic pork with nutmeg gnocchi. 3121 Granville St., South Granville, 604-608-2469. $$-$$$

CRU
Executive chef Alana Peckham’s pans enumerate small- and entrée-sized plates, tied to owner Mark Taylor’ intelligent wine list—see headings like “crisp,” “mellow,” “luscious” and “juicy.” Order a classic duck leg confit, with warm bacon dressing and baby green salad and organic potatoes ($15); or pan-seared scallops with roasted corn, marinated artichokes and baby cress salad ($15). For dessert, (each $8): the local berry tart, or wonderful coconut rhubarb panna cotta. 1459 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-677-4111. $$$

DOCKSIDE
Hybrid restaurant that pulls off some fine food to go with its great Granville Island setting. The chèvre and apricot-stuffed chicken breast ($26) is quite good, as is the herb and pine nut encrusted halibut ($28), but the choice of yam fries, baked potato or rice pilaf is a little too unintentionally retro. The wine list, though not long, has some thoughtful and well-priced selections. But yacht-side location and giant patio are inarguable and the service very friendly. Granville Island, 1253 Johnston St., South Granville, 604-685-7070. $$$

FORTUNE GARDEN
This comfy room with soft lighting and swift service is a few rungs above average. Start with the shrimp dumpling, jumbo-sized, and the braised bean curd. Then make mini sandwiches with the little “doves” that accompany the beef with honey sauce. For taste and tender texture, diced chicken with black bean chili hot pot excels. 1475 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-736-6868. $$

GALING GALING
Located at the hub of several cross-town transit routes, Galing Galing is a convenient stop for Filipino fare on the run. A “turo-turo” style eatery, where you “point-point” to what you want. Combination plates are a bargain diner’s best bet: $5.50 is a steal for chicken soup, rice and an entrée like igado, a savoury pork stew. Lumpia sariwa makes an ideal light meal: julienned vegetables and heart of palm, wrapped in a soft crêpe and drizzled with a sweet garlicky sauce. Add some Filipino tang to home-cooked meals and grab a jar of atchara to go, a pickled mix of green papaya, carrots, ginger and bell peppers. 1537 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-736-8877. $

JOEYS BROADWAY
Jeff Fuller’s burgeoning chainlet just got bigger with this opening on West Broadway; the rooftop patio instantly became a mixer of skinny jeans and Aldo slingbacks. The menu promotes “evil jungle” noodle salad, chicken souvlaki, ahi tuna clubs, steaks, and ribs. Executive chef Chris Mills has played the Casual Fine Dining card cleverly, letting the kids have fun, and without getting too fussed. 1424 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-732-5639. $$-$$$

THE KEG
David Aisenstat, aka The King of Steaks (he also owns the upmarket Hy’s chain and Gotham) bought The Keg chain 10 years ago, and now his outlets stretch from Victoria to Toronto and south all the way to Dallas. The Keg is his prêt à manger line: along with more conventional steakhouse victims you’ll find well-made shrimp cocktails, crab and lobster cakes, ribs, Szechwan green beans and chicken fajitas. Most are here for the beef: 28-day aged Canada AAA steaks and prime rib. A thick slab of the latter was one of the best we ate last year. Our server was fast, funny and informed, much better, we decided, than the obsequious brat who’d served us the night before in an expensive downtown tratt. We enjoyed ourselves, more than we might have thought. 1499 Anderson St., South Granville, 604-685-4735, and various other locations. $$-$$$

MAURYA
The room is an airy ode to colonial decor, and if you squint your eyes you can imagine you’re interloping in the officers’ mess in Bangalore. The cuisine eschews the nouvelle flourishes of its doppelganger down the street, Vij’s, in favour of classical pan-Indian cuisine. Offerings such as rogan josh ($14.95) and goa chicken curry ($13.95) will not dazzle you with their ingenuity, only their taste. Plus Maurya takes reservations and has a brilliant internet takeout site. 1643 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-742-0622. $$

MEMPHIS BLUES
Vegetarian alert. Memphis Blues’ pulled pork on soft buns are worthy of double parking. The meat-heavy menu, which also features catfish, sausage, brisket and Cornish game hen, is the best (and messiest) barbecue in town. Saddle up to the signature pulled pork sandwich ($7.95) with smoky beans, peppery slaw on a soft white bun for a truly authentic southern experience. The new Priscilla platter features all the meat, plus oysters, shrimp and catfish, and serves 10 ($120). A short, excellent wine and beer list points into the spice and smoke. 1465 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599; 1629 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-929-3699. $-$$

O THAI
Luck Sarabhayavanija’s smart West Broadway spot seamlessly weaves savoury Thai delicacies with modern technique, elegant decor and friendly, informed service. Progressive menu tempts even the least adventurous palates. Standouts include the bak mawk (gossamer dumplings, $6), kaeng talay (assorted seafood in a red coconut milk curry, $24) and the rack of lamb with sweet Thai basil ($24). Ample lunch combos ($7-13) lure the business crowd and the carefully selected wine list pairs well with spicy fare. 1626 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-731-4888. $$-$$$

OMI JAPAN
My mother-in-law claims she coined the saying “location, location, location.” Leaving aside the veracity of that claim, its mantra has been taken to heart by the gang at Omi. Smack dab in the middle of Granville Island, this spot has served the first taste of sushi to rubber-tired, middle-America tourists. By-in-large they have been competently served. Basic Japanese menu—they serve a lot of California Rolls ($3.95)—but thankfully corresponding basic pricing. 1689 Johnston St., South Granville, 604-685-8011. $

OUISI BISTRO
Ouisi is one of the few places in Vancouver to find authentic Cajun/Creole cuisine and also sports one of the city’s most secluded patios. The New Orleanian sandwiches are a great pick for lunch or brunch, especially the oyster loaf and the popular Ouisi po’ boy (blackened chicken with Cajun tartare sauce on a baguette). For the post-shopping/pre-Stanley Theatre dinner experience, try the House Flight—a sampler of jerk chicken, crab cakes and gator bites (yup, authentic Louisiana alligator). 3014 Granville St., South Granville, 604-732-7550. $$

PACIFIC INSTITUTE OF CULINARY ARTS
Report Card: A for effort. Adjunct to a culinary school offers the hook of catching the next Rob Feenie on their way up—your food is prepared and served by the Institute’s students. The result blends genius with the mundane. A recent visit yielded a heavenly lobster and spinach agnolotti starter which all but floated into your mouth, but a leaden pork loin and cabbage main. Lunch and dinner are best enjoyed in the three-course prix fixe mode ($24/$36) with prices nicely in step with the apprentice atmosphere. The menu changes daily and reservations are a must. 1505 W. 2nd Ave., South Granville, 604-734-4488. $$

PAUL'S PLACE OMELETTERY
This worn-around-the-edges neighbourhood spot does brisk business specializing in the most important meal of the day. Their signature omelettes are paper thin, stuffed with a variety of inventive goodies (order from the menu or create your own) and the coffee is strong and plentiful. All of the generous breakfast fare is under $10—except the Lumberjack, which is served via forklift—and lunch brings a solid selection of soups, burgers and sandwiches. Breakfast is served all day and Paul’s is fully licensed, just in case your morning meal requires a little hair of the dog. Expect daily specials, friendly service, and long lineups on the weekend. 2211 Granville St., South Granville, 604-737-2857. $$

PICNIC
This Peter Cardew-designed eatery—an adjunct to South Granville-staple Meinhardt Fine Foods—draws as much attention for its sleek Scandinavian looks as it does the food. New additions to the room, dominated by an oversized mirror and central table, are four pairs of smart leather tub chairs—for those, presumably, who don’t like eating communally. Speaking of the food—well, it’s from Meinhardt, so only the poshest luncheon grub. The selection changes daily, but we enjoyed the salmon salad sandwich on a recent visit. And the deadly Meinhardt brownies seem to keep reappearing—and promptly disappearing. 3001 Granville St., South Granville, 604-732-4405. $-$$

PRIMO'S MEXICAN GRILL
The Primo in question, Villanueva, opened this spot in 1959 after playing for UCLA (that’s his Rose Bowl trophy above the bar) and then the B.C. Lions. Almost five decades on, his grandsons run the place with unobtrusive efficiency, serving up great-grandmother’s traditional recipes from a brief, tightly focussed menu. The fare is tasty, fresh and reasonable (quesadillas range from $6.95 to $9.95; Alaskan snow crab enchiladas go for $20.50), and the place has the sort of high-ceilinged, well-worn authenticity that invites you to let lunch dissolve into a lazy afternoon of multiple cervesas. 1509 W. 12th Ave., South Granville, 604-736-9322. $$

RANGOLI
Hi-tech cafeteria with vermilion red-tiled walls and floor specializes in takeout or eat-in entrées of jackfruit paranta with lentil dumplings and spiced yogurt ($13), lamb in Vij’s masala, and Kalonji chicken curry ($12). Heat-and-eat bags, reminiscent of Marks & Spencer’s packaged foods, are fussless take-aways. The Mother-in-Law’s pork curry is delicious. As for that best-on-the-planet mint-mango chutney, proprietor Vikram Vij from namesake landmark next door won’t divulge the recipe. Yet. 1488 W. 11th Ave., South Granville, 604-736-5711. $$

RED DOOR PAN ASIAN GRILL
Heavy lacquer, sexy music and dim lights could double as a nightclub if not for the wok-based Pan Asian fare. Must-have the Vietnamese “Shaking Beef”—10 oz melting beef tenderloin with black pepper lime sauce and perfectly spiced, crisp Szechuan beans on the side. Everything is made in-house, right down to the refreshing ginger ice cream. Authentic recipes in pad Thai and green papaya salad. Service commendable. 2996 Granville St., South Granville, 604-733-5699. $$$

THE SANDBAR
Past the knick-knacky stores and down a narrow path, you’ll find The Sandbar—a cavernous restaurant on the water well suited as a bustling repository for the Granville Island tourist set. However, look closer and you’ll see that half the guests are actually in-the-know locals here to dine on fare such as the cornmeal-crusted calamari cones ($8.95)—not your usual rubber rings circa 1989. A daily fresh sheet offers up interesting selections from skate to sable fish and a little known secret resides behind the sushi bar downstairs: Hoshi, a contemporary of that other uber sushi chef Tojo. A serviceable and well-priced wine list rounds out the roster of this solid Granville Island choice. 1535 Johnston St., South Granville, 604-669-9030. $$-$$$

VIJ'S
Vij’s is one of the continent’s top Indian-inspired restaurants, wildly popular with locals and a must-visit for culinary tourists. Everything sings in cleanly wrought flavours; note the signature wine-marinated lamb chop “popsicles” glazed with fenugreek curry, and served with turmeric-inflected spinach and potatoes, Punjabi saag and homemade paneer. The menu changes rapidly but is always delicious, and the host, Vikram Vij, is a dervish, and always available for recommendations—especially on seasonal fish dishes such as a mildly spiced, creamily sauced halibut and a mussel bowl with eggplant-potato tikki and candied walnuts. The wine list, with each bottle gently priced, is a perfect while-u-wait antidote: Vij’s maintains an egalitarian, no reservations policy—we’ve spotted princes on the patio, nursing soothing Storm India Pale Ales, and happy to mix with the hoi polloi. 1480 W. 11th Ave., South Granville, 604-736-6664. $$-$$$

WEST
A formidable lineup: David Hawksworth, one of Canada’s foremost chefs, who trained under greats Marco-Pierre White and Raymond Blanc in London before returning to his native Vancouver; a consummate bar that eyes traditional cocktail construction and finely managed wines; and Brian Hopkins, a disciplined and gracious host. All wrapped—like the off-duty movie stars who show up here frequently—in a jewel-box room. This is the province’s finest restaurant; the swift rotation of the menus precisely reflects the growing and fishing seasons. Seared and braised wild spring salmon with 12 different vegetables ($38); roasted fillet of sablefish, butternut squash purée, white asparagus and chanterelles ($39); or Virginia’s organic redbro smoked chicken with parsnips, caramelized apple purée and cider emulsion ($36). Finish with the restaurant’s fine turn of British Columbia, Québec and French cheeses, or pastry chef Rhonda Viani’s caramelized apple purée with cider emulsion. 2881 Granville St., South Granville, 604-738-8938. $$$-$$$$

BACK TO REVIEWS HOME