South Vancouver

ALL INDIA SWEETS RESTAURANT
Dessert is the main attraction here. Neon-coloured confections line long glass counters in an otherwise plain room. The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet looks a little the worse for wear, but worth a trip for budget-conscious vegetarians. The à la carte is a much better bet. 6507 Main St., South Vancouver, 604-327-0891. $

DAI TUNG
Cheap and bountiful dim sum draws constant crowds, so expect to cool your heels before getting seated. Mouthwatering array is worth the wait. Warm shrimp dumplings nestle in delicate skin of translucent rice flour; signature salted chicken stands out amongst an impressive selection of egg tarts, gyozas, gai lan and congee. Bring cash—at lunch, that’s all they take. 108-1050 Kingsway, South Vancouver, 604-872-2268. $-$$

DOCKERS FAMILY RESTAURANT
Mammoth portions at miniscule prices have made this engaging greasy spoon a local favourite since 2004 (Dockers as we know it has been open since 2004, the restaurant space has been there since 1959). Heaping helpings of breakfast are served all day, with a rotating special that is rarely over five bucks, and folks flock from all over for their signature submarine sandwiches. You’ll need both hands for the special sub, loaded with grilled ribeye, fried onions and mozzarella (6” $5.50; 12” $9.25). Owner Nick maintains a steady stream of patter while keeping the coffee cups full for his colourful cast of endearing regulars that include city workers, local families and commuting suburbanites. Throw in a sassy waitress named Flo, and you’ve got yourself a sitcom. 6094 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-327-6713. $

HO YUEN KEE
Crab dishes are remarkable: try fried whole over lotus-leaf-perfumed sticky rice studded with corn and tobiko. Standing room only well into the evening as the late-night menu shifts to lighter small-plate dishes. Deep-fried “silverfish” served with chilies and garlic chips showcases the well-executed wok cooking. Don’t miss the house-specialty dessert of steamed-to-order silken tofu with sweet ginger syrup. Best Casual Chinese winner at this magazine’s 2007 restaurant awards. 6236 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-324-8855. $$

KIM PHUNG
It’s often standing room only at lunch hour, as Vietnamese soup aficionados flock to this tiny hole-in-the-wall for what’s considered by many to be Vancouver’s definitive bowl of pho. The rich broth is the main attraction, and $5.50 buys you a bowl packed with rice noodles and morsels of beefy goodness. Garnish to taste from your plate of fresh bean sprouts, basil, chilies, and lime. Strong Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk served over ice delivers a one-two punch, but try a jackfruit shake for something exotic. Cash only. 5764 Victoria Dr., South Vancouver, 604-327-4490. $

MUI GARDEN RESTAURANT
All four locations of this Hong Kong-style coffee shop boast oddities of sliced ham with macaroni in soup, and Pork Chop de Hawaii that arrives on a sizzling iron platter. More authentic: Chiu Chow-style noodle soups with house-made cuttlefish, and crunchy beef meatballs on fresh ribbons of rice noodles, the broth snapped with pickled napa cabbage, fried garlic and nori. Other specialties: Singapore-style satays; creamy Malaysian coconut curries and Hainan chicken, with rice cooked in chicken fat and stock. Décor is minimalist-diner, but the service, especially on Main Street, is welcoming. 4265 Main St., South Main, 604-872-8232; 5797 Victoria Dr., South Vancouver, 604-324-3665; 6956 Victoria Dr., South Vancouver, 604-301-1278. $-$$

NEW GRAND VIEW
Best mu shu crêpes in town, as well as a bevy of unconventional Szechuan dishes. Try the braised eggplant with garlic and the chicken with cashew nuts tucked into a potato bird’s nest. The wonton soup here is the cure for all that ails, and complimentary at lunch (with orders over $20). 4181 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-879-8885. $-$$

THE PLACE
Shanghainese and Sichuan food share equal billing at this small restaurant in Marpole. The Chinese name is literally “the old place,” meaning the regular hangout. The xiao long bao’s are generously sized and full of brothy goodness. Sesame flatbreads are filled with chilled five-spice beef and flaky pastries with daikon. For a blast of heat, try the “peppering chicken,” pieces of deep-fried chicken tossed with dried chilies and citrusy Sichuan peppercorns. The front window is lined with pictures of specialties; friendly staff will guide you through the menu. 8028 Granville St., South Vancouver, 604-261-3948. $

PINPIN RESTAURANT
Awash in a sea of loonie stores, Pinpin’s red awning beckons—think busy, casual and a broad selection of Filipino-Chinese plates popular with expats. Large family-style platters feed families on the cheap. Lumpia shanghai to start, finger-sized pork ($4.50 for 12) and vegetable spring rolls served with sweet chili dipping sauce. Follow with garlic rice and embotido ($6.95), the Filipino version of meatloaf. Or skip straight to dessert and dive into a bowl of special halo-halo ($2.95), a “mix-mix” of sweet beans and tropical fruit topped with shaved ice, milk and ice cream. Closed Mondays. 6113 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-322-3086. $$

RED STAR SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Shrimp is the star of this Marpole restaurant’s dim sum menu ($3.25-$5.25). Enjoy it steamed in a rice-flour roll, pan-fried in a radish cake, deep-fried with crunchy almonds or front and centre in the most traditional of all bamboo-basket delicacies: plump shrimp dumplings and juicy shiumai. Banquets are popular here—despite a less-than-ideal L-shaped room—which speaks to the kitchen’s mastery of fresh seafood: a mid-range dinner set for 10 includes stuffed crab claws, lobster in “superior broth”, sautéed scallops and steamed fish ($538). 8298 Granville St., South Vancouver, 604-261-8389. $$-$$$

SHASHUKA
Go for the gelato, stay for the art. This bright little room showcases an array of local artwork in various mediums and 32 rotating flavours of house-made gelatos. Chef Alfred Fan’s (ex-Wild Garlic) varied menu is certainly more accessible than some of the objets d’art. Breakfast specialty is the Shakshuka ($7.50): two eggs with roma tomato, green pepper and cheese. Great coffee, fresh smoothies and over 20 different salads (try a combination of four for $10)—an interesting concept in a location that may prove challenging. 6555 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-677-8204. $$

SUPER HAPPINESS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Reservations are mandatory, walks-ins impossible. Why the fuss? Because the unadorned home-style dishes are the epitome of Cantonese cooking. Skip the English menu, most patrons let their server guide them. A starter of warm soy braised brisket is satisfyingly savoury; Dungeness crab sautéed with first draw soy sauce (the first and best batch) and Shanghai green onions is a study in how the right condiments bring out the best in quality ingredients. An absolute steal at $13. Duck and taro hot pot scented with Chinese wine is delicious, sautéed gai lan is perfectly brightened with chopped ginger. 6007 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-325-9788. $$

WONTON KING
Its location—in a mini-mall on Southeast Marine—does this place no favours, but the cooking redeems. Find two menus: a round-up of the standard fare and another for regulars. On the latter, the smoked black cod with spicy green beans and dried pork is nicely spiced. Dare you: stir-fried pork cheek and spicy stuffed conch. 620 S.E. Marine Dr., South Vancouver, 604-321-4433. $$

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