Steakhouses
BOGART'S CHOPHOUSE AND BAR
Handsome, snug room features extensive beer and wine
lists, sturdy cocktails and a winning way—far
more than many neighbourhood steakhouses could hope
to aspire to. The starters, well-made: calamari, oysters,
and Caesar salads lead to grills of sirloin, New York
strips, rib-eyes and chops. The prices range from $20
to $32 and the wine list has an ample selection in the
$30 to $45 range. But the real hook: the jazz evenings
from Thursday to Sunday, when the music of local and
imported artists rings out over West Broadway. 1619
W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-733-4141. $$-$$$
GOTHAM STEAKHOUSE
Ogle great pieces of meat, be it a 24-oz porterhouse
or a visiting Hollywood starlet, at this swank American
steakhouse. The elegant room features high ceilings,
sweeping murals and a mouthwatering array of perfectly
marbled Canadian Prime cuts. Carve into a 24 oz. juicy
bone-in ribeye ($49.95) and plentiful sides like fresh
asparagus ($7.50) and Lyonnaise potatoes ($6.50). Private
rooms, an expansive patio and a luxurious cocktail bar
attract captains of industry and the professional wait
staff will help you to navigate a wine list that’s
as enticing as the slow-roasted prime rib ($38.95).
615 Seymour St., Downtown, 604-605-8282. $$$$
HAMILTON STREET GRILL
Chef-owner Neil Wyles’s Yaletown steakhouse features
Angus steaks, seafood and braises. But insiders order
the flavour-packed hanger or sirloin steaks, served
with a whomp of roasted-garlic-mashed potatoes and a
turn of seasonal vegetables. The roasted tomato soup
carries a backsplash of aromatic gin. Prices compare
very favourably with other Vancouver steakhouses: a
grilled sirloin is $22, and a hefty 20-oz New York $38.
Add a half pound of Alaskan king crab for $16. Don’t
leave without sampling the house-made gingerbread pudding.
And watch for wildly popular, bargain-rate wine socials
featuring leading local and long-distance brands. 1009
Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-331-1511. $$-$$$
HY'S ENCORE
Hy Aisenstat’s legendary spot (if these walls
could talk...) still turns out one of Vancouver’s
best steaks in one of the city’s authentically
retro dining rooms. The colour scheme runs to black
and red, and so do the main-event steaks, expertly trimmed
and grilled. While the 22-ounce porterhouse may be a
model of understatement, the Caesar salads, prepared
tableside, are pungent and deep. Portraits of retired
waiters line the walls; those still working are all
pro. Wine list runs to U.S. and French reds. 637
Hornby St., Downtown, 604-683-7671. $$$$
MORTON'S THE STEAKHOUSE
The menu echoes the ’70s with the exception of
your bill (about as hefty as the portions) and a few
more national and local celebs added to the hallway’s
photo gallery. Regional, local, sustainable—fuhgeddaboudit.
Instead tuck into USDA prime aged, Midwest grain-fed
beef shipped directly from Chicago (as is the richly
classic New York cheesecake). All entrées ample
enough to share from a 24-oz Porterhouse to a 14-oz
double-cut filet mignon. Cajun ribeye steak is stand-out,
especially with a side of creamed spinach and Lyonnaise
potatoes. Colossal Shrimp Alexander aptly named; appies
can double as entrées. Wine list has doubled,
up to 240 selections, heavy on the California, Washington
and Oregon reds. Terrific after-work beefwiches—on
the house. 750 W. Cordova St., Downtown, 604-915-5105.
$$$$
REX
All dark wood and leather, this American-style grill
in the Bentall Centre courtyard has a country club feel,
where corporate bigwigs press the flesh over slabs of
AAA Alberta Prime. Chef Terry Multhauf’s showcase
rotisserie stokes the fires of the power lunch crowd
with 12-ounce cracked pepper ribeye with sweet corn
succotash ($25) and the half rotisserie chicken with
lemon rosemary pan jus ($16). Chermoula rubbed calamari
($10) and the sonoran albacore with chili aioli ($11)
are grea ways to start. The evening specialty is thick
cuts of juicy prime rib, in 8-ounce ($24), 12-ounce
($28) and “Rex-size” ($32) portions. Large
patio is weather permitting and the room is available
on weekends by special request. Three-course table d’hôte
is a serious steal at $28. 1055 Dunsmuir St., Downtown,
604-683-7390. $$$
SALTLIK STEAK HOUSE
Another Fuller Bros. (Earls, Joey’s etc.) venture,
this time tilted toward red meat and redder wine. The
room is a vaulted playroom on the new Alberni strip
of haute designer stores, a catch basin for tourists
and financial district guys and gals. The room is understated
and attractive, a retro look back at steakhouse decor
but without the baronial bits. The food is modern; accompanying
the Canada AAA steaks you’ll find inventive side
dishes and now more settled service. 1032 Alberni
St., West End, 604-689-9749. $$-$$$$
BACK TO REVIEWS HOME

|