RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Sunshine Coast


MAGELLAN'S TAPAS BY THE BAY
Situated in a busy marina on the Sechelt inlet, among float planes and boats, the room is warm and inviting, packed with locals. The small but focussed menu starts off with oysters in eight variations; four raw and four cooked. The Absolut vodka, citrus crème fraiche lightly sprinkled with tobiko is a winner, as is the offering of cooked oyster smothered in spinach, ouzo and citrus hollandaise. The chimmichirri lamb chops with goat cheese and smoked tomato and sweet onion soubis is the perfect combination of sweet, spicy, tangy and smoky tender, while the marinated raw ahi tuna poke with spinach gomei floats on the palate. Magellan’s also presents a thoughtful selection of old- and new-world wines by the glass. The place fills up early and reservations are a must. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 5764 Wharf Ave., Sechelt, 604-740-0904. $$

ROCKWATER SECRET COVE RESORT
The appetizer platter lets you choose four from dishes like pan-seared Brome Lake duck breast, Skeena River sockeye salmon gravlax, confit belly of wild boar, and melt-in-your-mouth Okanagan goat cheese brulee—our hands-down favourite. Entrees feature local produce and free-range, organic meats, wild seafood and home-smoked bacon. The pan-roasted Pacific halibut was tender-perfect, and the free-range organic chicken, stuffed with house-made butter-chicken sausage was juicy, light and flavourful. Reservations are recommended, especially if you’d like to sit on the view deck. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 5356 Ole’s Cove Rd., Halfmoon Bay, 604-885-7038. $$$

SPENCE ON THE COAST
Local wunderkind, executive chef Spencer Watts, brings his eclectic vision to this new venture, a cosy little hide-away tucked into the new Tsain-ko shopping area just behind the totem poles. Appetizers range from B.C. Dungeness crab cakes with smoked jalapeno aïoli to pistachio-crusted flash-fried brie with strawberry butter toasted baguette. Light and flavourful house-made lobster ravioli balances the succulent wild salmon filet entrée, and the tender boneless braised lamb shank in coconut curry lentil sauté is perfectly complemented with a flaky candied red cabbage strudel. Leave room for dessert. Not to be missed is the wickedly rich and delicious port torte, a chocolate and port concoction smothered in warm cherry sauce. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 202-5500 Sunshine Coast Hwy., Sechelt, 604-740-8221. $$$

THE UPPER DECK
The seasonal haunt of Joni Mitchell, the Upper Deck is located on the top floor of the floating marina at Secret Cove, and offers fantastic views. Most locals arrive here by boat, so the atmosphere is casual and the service friendly and unhurried. Austrian-born chef Eric Bentz infuses his West Coast contemporary cuisine with his home-country’s lightly sauced sensibilities with great success and uses lots of local and seasonal ingredients and a rotating menu that never disappoints. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Secret Cove Marina, 5411 Secret Cove Rd., 604-885-3533. $$

 

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