RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Thai


ARROY-D THAI RESTAURANT
Simple decor, a striking central wooden dining area, and a downtown vista provide a welcome diversion from Cambie Street’s clatter. Lunch specials are a cost-effective way to sample the kitchen’s skill ($5.99-$8.99). Try the gang kaew warn (green curry; $9.99) or the praram long srong (spinach with chicken and peanut sauce; $9.99). Outstanding soups and the pad Thai ($11.99) are aromatic and pungent, fresh and balanced—just as Thai food should be. 3106 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-879-9944. $-$$

CHAO PHRAYA
Authentic Thai cuisine outshines the weirdly Mediterranean interior at Chao Phraya. Choice lead-ins are green mango and papaya salad or larb gai, minced chicken meat sautéed with shallots, toasted rice, roasted chilies and a healthy dose of cilantro. Though gaeng keow-wan (green curry with eggplant and green beans) is said to top the heat meter, give your server a nudge and they’ll knock the capsaicin count through the roof. 2325 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-732-3939 $$-$$$

CHILLI HOUSE THAI BISTRO
This waterfront jewel sparkles for its authentic Thai delicacies and spectacular views of False Creek. Some dishes approach art in layered levels of flavour and texture (often presented with painstaking attention to detail), and a newly expanded wine list complements the spicy cuisine. The goong pad prig khing (spicy prawns with lime leaves and green beans, $13.98) delights and the horw mok maprao (chicken in a red curry sauce, $13.98) is served in a whole fresh coconut. Sip creamy coconut milk and lychee cocktails on the heated patio while joggers pound the seawall pavement. 1018 Beach Ave., West End, 604-685-8989. $$-$$$

O THAI
Luck Sarabhayavanija’s smart West Broadway spot seamlessly weaves savoury Thai delicacies with modern technique, elegant decor and friendly, informed service. Progressive menu tempts even the least adventurous palates. Standouts include the bak mawk (gossamer dumplings, $6), kaeng talay (assorted seafood in a red coconut milk curry, $24) and the rack of lamb with sweet Thai basil ($24). Ample lunch combos ($7-13) lure the business crowd and the carefully selected wine list pairs well with spicy fare. 1626 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-731-4888. $$-$$$

SALA THAI

Som Tum (salad of green papaya, chilies and lime, $7.99), golden shrimp cakes ($7.99), and Gaeng Pa-nang: sautéed tiger prawns, scallops, coconut meat and kaffir lime leaves in a fiery red curry ($9.99) are as authentic as they come. Terrific value at lunch and daily specials. Cambie location has been a neighborhood fixture for over 20 years, but the opulent downtown room also delivers consumate curries and pad Thai. 102-888 Burrard St., Downtown, 604-683-7999; 3364 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-875-6999. $$-$$$

SAWASDEE THAI

Busaba Poonpem prepares tasty Thai food served in a simply styled restaurant with attentive service. Start with her stuffed-spiced chicken wings, beautiful flower-shaped chicken dumplings, and papaya salad—all dishes under $10. The pad Thai is nicely sauced ($9.95), as is the roast duck curry ($11.95). The house favourite is the crying tiger beef ($9.95). It’s delivered a perfect medium rare—sliced and marinated in hot hot hot sauce (they’ll oblige with less spice). Plenty of vegetarian choices. 4250 Main St., South Main, 604-876-4030. $$

SIMPLY THAI
You know you are in Yaletown when your Thai restaurant, in this case Grace Rerksuttisiridach’s Simply Thai, has a 19-page wine list featuring everything from Corton Charlemagne to rare Turley Zinfandels. The basics, such as a stellar pad Thai ($13), are flawless, but let yourself be steered off the beaten path to such unique flavours as the pla lard prig (whole fried tilapia in pineapple, bell peppers and three flavour sauce for $25.95) to see the difference between this and most other of the city’s Thai restaurants. 1211 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-642-0123. $$

URBAN THAI BISTRO
Patrick Chen’s expansive Thai House menu pays tribute to all the Thai classics, but kicks it up a notch with creative fusion fare like New Zealand lamb loin chops with Thai herbs ($7.50) and spicy ostrich and basil stuffed lettuce wraps ($10.95). Have the drunken prawns in ginger and Thai chili sauce ($12.95) as hot as you can take it—the lychee and coconut milk cocktails ($6.50) will cool your palate. Service is attentive and daily lunch specials starting at $7.50 are the best deal in Yaletown. Delivery available after 5:00pm. 1119 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-408-7788. $$-$$$

 

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