Vancouver Island
Cedar
Cobble Hill
Comox
Courtenay
Cowichan Bay
Cumberland
Duncan
Malahat
Nanaimo
Sidney
Sooke
Tofino
Victoria
CEDAR
THE MAHLE HOUSE
Siblings Maureen Loucks and Delbert Horrocks, chef and
sommelier respectively, have long sourced top-flight
game, local seafood and organic poultry to produce delicious
Pacific Northwest dishes, complemented with produce
and herbs from the garden. Beet chips and goat cheese
top mesclun greens ($9); a trio of tenderloins—beef,
lamb and pork—are served in Maderia, curry and
dijon cream sauces, respectively ($30); and the cairnlike
seafood tower is luscious with a saffron aïoli
($26). All is cleverly matched with an extensive award-winning
wine list. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 2104 Homer Rd.,
250-722-3621. $$$
Back
to the top
COBBLE HILL
LA POMMERAIE BISTRO
Merridale Ciderworks is the Island’s only cidery,
and the largest cider producer in B.C. After a tour
and tasting, kick back for lunch along the wrap-around
deck with stunning views overlooking the orchards. Best
bets are the ploughman’s platters: a tour-de-force
of local charcuterie and seafood—fresh and smoked
($25). Baguettes, focaccia for the sandwiches and thin-crust
pizzas are produced courtesy of the newly installed
wood-fired oven. Go for the tasting flight of ciders,
or stick with a glass of the award-winning Scrumpy brew
Popular Sunday brunch for eggs Benny ($13.50) and omelettes
($13). Very kid-friendly location. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 1230 Merridale Rd., 250-743-4293. $$
Back
to the top
COMOX
MARTINES
The warm ambience of Martines offers a fine-dining option
in downtown Comox. Chef Marcus Aartsen’s polished
technique adds elegance to simple fare. His best dishes
marry the comfort of the familiar with fresh-off-the-dock
fish. Try the Dungeness crab and roasted red pepper
aïoli crab cakes ($10.95). Mains like grilled lamb
sirloin with a merlot and wild mushroom demi ($21.95)
are perfectly done. Area purveyors, including Natural
Pastures cheeses, punch up additional flavours. Informed
and ever-changing wine list created by partner Christine
Cameron keeps things interesting, and by-the-glass program
secures it as one of the best of the mid-Island. In-season
patio provides spectacular al-fresco dining option,
with lofty views of sea-harbour and sunset. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 1754 Beaufort Ave., 250-339-1199. $$
Back
to the top
COURTENAY
ATLAS CAFE
The room is big and friendly, like the menu. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner traverse the globe, playing the hits,
all generously portioned with many vegetarian offerings
to keep the locals happy. Try the crab cakes with an
orange-ancho aïoli ($10) or the Mediterranean platter
for starters. Main attractions feature fish tacos ($15.50)
and entrées that change nightly according to
seasonal availability. Wine list thoughtfully chosen
with B.C. and worldly picks, but we’d like to
see more Island choices in grape and grain. ITALIAN.
250 6th St., 250-338-9838. $$
ORBITZ CAFE
Multiple toppings spin the pizza orbit here. The pesto,
tomatoes, roasted eggplant and black olive pie is heavenly,
while the Harvest Moon of caramelized onions, apple,
rosemary and blue cheese is cosmic ($3.70 per slice;
$27.95 for an 18 inch). Change of ownership has kept
the consistency intact while traversing new frontiers
with tandoori chicken and barbecued pulled pork. INFORMAL.
492 Fitzgerald Ave., 250-338-7970. $
Back
to the top
COWICHAN BAY
MASTHEAD
Set in a historic former hotel overlooking picturesque
Cowichan Bay, the Masthead could easily have trolled
for tourist dollars serving fish and chips. Instead,
this seafood restaurant pays attention to local ingredients
and sustainable seafood with chef Matt Horn at the helm.
Begin on the half shell with the latest oysters ($8),
segue to a packed-to-the-gunnels house chowder ($8)
or the weathervane scallops, seared in a beurre noisette
and served over mascarpone risotto ($12). A main of
Cowichan Valley raised venison with Yukon gold gnocchi
in a red wine demi glace ($27) is substantial and uncomplicated
fare, served alongside the local duck fat roasted potatoes.
Core B.C. wine list is sold with infectious enthusiasm.
SEAFOOD. 1705 Cowichan Bay Rd., 250-748-3714. $$
Back
to the top
CUMBERLAND
THE GREAT ESCAPE
Nicola Cunha and Jean-Francois Larche escaped the rigours
of the film industry to open a modern Indian restaurant
in historic Cumberland. Small but expertly prepared
Indian menu, with organic meats and many vegan options.
Hand-ground spices and family curry recipes compete
with modern flourishes of tandoori chicken over potato
latkes ($6.95). Small wine card includes Hornby Island
meads to complement the show. INDIAN. 2744 Dunsmuir
Ave., 250-336-8831. $$
Back
to the top
DUNCAN
BISTRO ONE SIXTY ONE
Fatima da Silva (ex-Vinoteca) has raised the culinary
bar in Duncan with a warm room offering big-city elegance.
Local seasonal lunch fare goes the way of marinated
chicken and candied smoked bacon in the ciabatta club
sandwich ($10.95), or crab cakes with a turn of lime
($11.95)—all served with a heap of Providence
Farm greens. The dinner hour invites for smart cocktails
around the blue granite bar, complemented by roasted
duck with a vanilla and blood orange reduction ($23.95).
Wine list is small but concise with many Island favourites.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 161 Kenneth St., 250-746-6466.
$$
SPICE SHACK EATERY
In a town fuelled by fast food, the invitation of curry
aromatics is a singular change. Chef and owner Azam
Khan grew up on the farmlands of the Cowichan Valley;
now he successfully combines his grandmothers recipes
from Amazai, Pakistan, with the food of the valley,
pairing them with area wines and Merridale cider. Baseball-size
pakoras burst with potato, peas, cumin and cilantro,
and the sweet-smelling, cardomom-and-cinnamon-spiced
rice is a must order. South Asian. 248 TransCanada Hwy.,
604-250-4230.
STEEPLES
A former church with a soaring cedar-beam ceiling offers
a cosy and immaculate dining just steps from Shawnigan
Lake. Owner Darren Cole, able to traverse from bar to
tableside Caesar toss to flambé dessert captain,
keeps the congregation happy and sated with smoothly
efficient service and generously portioned hearty fare.
Prime examples: prosciutto and provolone wrapped Cowichan
Bay chicken breast in a house smoked tomato-shallot
cream sauce ($26), or apricot glazed roasted Cowichan
Valley pork loin pancetta accompanied by apple stuffing,
rosemary roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables ($18).
Ace drinks list of island wines, beers and cocktails.
Fruit bellinis ($4.50) are the patio choice for sun
and garden views. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 2744
E. Shawnigan Lake Rd., 250-743-1887. $$-$$$
VINOTECA AT ZANATTA WINERY
A restored 1903 farmhouse set amongst rolling hills
of vineyards—you can’t get more picturesque.
Belly up to the tasting room for a sip of the slightly
effervescent Damasco, a cult favourite. Lunches are
served veranda-side courtesy of new chef Tracey Norman—all
smartly paired with Zanatta wines. Find side-striped
shrimp, tossed with garden basil and organic tomatoes,
or a torta rustica, or antipasti plate for two. Local
balsamic tossed strawberries to finish. Open from April
to October. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Reservations
recommended. 5039 Marshall Rd., 250-709-2279. $$-$$$
Back
to the top
MALAHAT
THE AERIE RESORT
Constant winner in international polls for their lofty
locale and for chef Christophe Letard’s highly
elevated cuisine. Soar through the seasons with a menu
imbued with flavours of the Cowichan Valley and the
Pacific Northwest. Multi-course tasting menus are culinary
adventures, all exceptionally wine-paired. Find more
vegetarian options—emphasis on raw and the use
of ancient grains. Serious wine program, a multi-award
winner focuses includes a selection of 600 international
wines and 150 from B.C. Great Sunday brunch getaway,
although portions are delicate. Earthly delights are
offered through fall mushroom foraging tours led by
a local monk. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 600 Ebedora
Lane, 250-743-7115. $$$-$$$$
BRENTWOOD SEA GRILLE &
PUB AT BRENTWOOD BAY LODGE
Another interior redo finds a user-friendly dining room
(formerly the Arbutus Grille and Wine Bar) with a lower
price point to eat, drink and be merry. Cozy booths
define the space and floor-to-ceiling French doors open
to the patio for sunset views. The adjoining pub offers
the usual burger-fries-pizza concept washed down with
craft brews. Great pit stop during Saanich winery tours
or Mill Bay ferry waits. Wine bar pours strong on B.C.
with 20 by-the-glass and 500 bottles. Substantial martini
list, too. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 849 Verdier
Ave., 250-544-5100, 888-544-2079. $$-$$$
Back
to the top
NANAIMO
THE CROW AND GATE
In a pastoral setting 20 minutes south of Nanaimo, black
swans, resident geese and floral gardens greet guests
at B.C.’s oldest pub where the lofty interior
of heavy wood tables, stone fireplace and beer-coaster
decor keeps the ambiance authentic. Service takes place
at the bar, where Guinness, local brews and quaffable
wines by-the-glass are poured. Ploughman’s lunch
show Scotch eggs ($12.50) and stilton ($10.95), Melton
Mowbray ($9.50) or a rich steak and kidney pie ($9.50)—even
pan-fried oysters ($12.50), to keep things west coast.
Winters provide a cosy retreat with a roaring fireplace,
a game of darts and a piano to keep things festive.
INFORMAL. 2313 Yellow Point Rd., 250-722-3731. $
THE WESLEY STREET RESTAURANT
This hub-city gem spins a modern west coast menu paying
homage to farmers and artisans throughout the Island.
Chef Romeo Devcic begins with exceptional charcuterie
and smoked Qualicum scallops served alongside baby spinach,
crispy pancetta and a grilled lemon vinaigrette ($14).
Mains are delicious cool-weather friends: Sloping Hills
organic pork chops, thick cut, served with a roasted
apple demi ($22), or red-wine-braised Cowichan Bay duck
leg over a white bean ragout with a sweet chili sauce
($22). Attentive service provided by co-owner/sommelier
Gaetan Brousseau. The wine list steers wisely through
the globe with many B.C. picks. Winemaker dinners in
the fall. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1-321 Wesley
St., 250-753-6057. $$$
Back
to the top
SIDNEY
DEEP COVE CHALET
Paradise found. Attractively situated on six acres where
chef Pierre Koffel and his wife Bev have created something
akin to a private waterfront club. From a consommé
au citron ($8) to rabbit stew with prunes ($35) or veal
sweetbreads ($35), this is classic French given new
life, never nouvelle in portions. Plan on a leisurely
lunch or dinner. Soufflés for dessert, made to
order ($10). Novella-sized wine list with Old World
and B.C. favourites throughout. Recent vine plantings
for a future Ortega vintage reassures us that the Chalet
is here to stay. FRENCH. 11190 Chalet Rd., 250-656-3541.
$$$-$$$$
HARO'S WATERFRONT AT SIDNEY
PIER HOTEL AND SPA
Long overdue, a casual fine dining option for the overflowing
retirement community of Sidney. Chef Gordon O’Neill
shows great promise with uncomplicated local, sustainable
fare. The chowder of fresh crab and shrimp ($12) defines
a sense of place; house-made gnocchi with fava beans
over a wild mushroom ragout plates forest and farm.
Mains of rotisserie Island lamb ($25) or Cowichan Bay
chicken ($26) are served simply, with jus, fingerling
potatoes and seasonal vegetables in a bowl for the table.
The wine list shows promise with many B.C. small lot
picks and a keen staff to serve them. Sunday brunch
with marine tours, which runs from June to August, provides
family seaside adventures. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
9805 Seaport Place, 250-655-9445. $$-$$$
Back
to the top
SOOKE
MARKUS' WHARFSIDE
Chef Markus Wieland pushes deceptively simple flavours
from a backdrop of local produce, organic meats and
seafood. There are nods to Italy with a daily risotto,
and many mains are wisely offered in appetizer size
to invite more sampling from the menu. Weiland’s
wife, Tatum, works the room with gentle efficiency.
Short but high-powered wine list offers choice picks
from around the world. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
1831 Maple Ave., 250-642-3596. $$$
POINT-NO-POINT
Chef Jason Nienaber promotes the bounty of local growers
in a stubbornly regional, seasonal menu, well worth
the long drive. Start with confit of Cowichan Bay duck
with brandied cherries ($11). Mains offer lots of wild
fish—halibut with crispy blue cheese polenta is
stellar ($24). Inviting wine list patrols the Pacific
Northwest with sidesteps to Spain and Chile. Find beautiful
sunset views in this hideaway overlooking the Strait
of Juan de Fuca. Better yet, enjoy the view from your
hot tub by booking a cabin. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
10829 West Coast Rd., 250-646-2020. $$$
SOOKE HARBOUR HOUSE
Island food royalty: Sinclair and Frédérique
Philip pioneered all things seasonal, sustainable and
local here, and have justly attracted more press than
a grape harvest. Chef Edward Tuson’s pans continue
to promote a whimsical but always flavour-packed romp
through their gardens, the shoreline, farms—including
his own—and the sea. Raw oysters are treated to
rhubarb foam, fennel oil and sweet woodruff flowers.
Mains dazzle with sablefish in a fuki stem shellfish
bull kelp seaweed broth with daylily flower oil, a dried
cranberry, roasted rutabaga, pineapple sage wild rice
and barley fuki leaf roll with golden beets and asparagus.
You get the point. The wine list, a perennial winner
at the Playhouse Wine Awards, swoops through Cascadia.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd.,
250-642-3421. $$$-$$$$
Back
to the top
TOFINO
LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT
Nestle up in the Great Room, preferably near the fireplace,
and unwind with chef Jeffery Young’s (ex of Vancouver’s
Beyond) take on a global-modern menu matched with local
sources. Pan-seared wild salmon sits atop quinoa with
a lemon-caper beurre blanc and Nanoose Bay Farm greens
($29). Wine list commendable and attentive bar service
keeps the post-prandials in fine spirit. Lighter fare
like seafood chowder with double-smoked bacon ($8) warms
the cockles, wood-fired oven pizzas ($12-15) are the
surfers’ choice, and the breakfast pecan sticky
buns the stuff of legend. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
1414 Pacific Rim Hwy., 250-725-2442, 877-844-7873. $$$
THE POINTE AT THE WICKANINNISH
INN
A gorgeous cedar room tastefully appointed with art,
provides lofty views above Chesterman Beach and the
crashing waves of Tofino. Accomplished land-based fare
sees veal loin alongside crisp sweetbreads with a foie
gras torchon and foie gras foam for good measure ($48),
and the housemade Merguez sausage is paired with a double
lamb chop with potato croquettes and ratatouille, providing
delicious balance ($46). Summer beach crab cookouts
are fun for the whole family. Wine list represents the
shores of B.C., Baja and beyond with a formidable scotch
list, all served by a pro staff. CONTEMPORARY WEST
COAST. Wickaninnish Inn, Chesterman Beach, 250-725-3100,
800-333-4604. $$$-$$$$
RAINCOAST CAFE
The David Nicolay-designed Raincoast provides a contemporary
setting for bold Asian flavours combined with local
ingredients. Chef Lisa Henderson admirably performs
an adventurous balancing act of the two: Salt Spring
mussels conjure up the tropics with a sweet sambal coconut
broth, tandoori halibut ensnares with an aromatic cardamom-honey-pistachio
basmati rice, and slow-cooked lamb is rich and sweet,
and flavoured with masala curry. For dessert, the frozen
peanut butter pie is a cult favourite—order ahead.
A smart B.C. wine list surprises with some organic Aussie
selections. Tuesday tapas nights are crowded affairs.
ASIAN. 101-120 4th St., 250-725-2215. $$-$$$
SCHOONER ON SECOND AND UPSTAIRS
An established local hangout since 1949, the Schooner’s
room and menu are constantly refreshed. Small plates
menu offers classic mussels marinara ($14) and seafood
hot pots ($29). Meat lubbers are sated with chipotle-bourbon-sauced
back ribs ($26, full rack; $19, half rack), while seafood
lovers opt for the Captain’s plate for two ($59):
abundant portions of charbroiled salmon, halibut, grilled
oysters, garlic sautéed prawns and scallops.
The vibe is chill in the newly built Upstairs dining
lounge; indulge in chef Nigel Davidson’s globally
inspired tapas-style menu paired with a dram from their
sleek Scotch selection. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
331 Campbell St., 250-725-3444. $$ Upstairs, 250-725-3664.
$$-$$$
SHELTER RESTAURANT
Recent reno reveals an expansive post-and-beam room
with open kitchen, wrap-around black leather booths
and lengthy patio. Chicken wings in a sticky szechuan-chili
glaze ($9) provide a new take on an old standby and
stout-steamed mussels ($14) are elegant with preserved
lemon and garden thyme. For sturdier plates go for off-the-deck
seafood and sticky rice wrapped in with banana leaf
($27). Rustic slate fireplace for stormy nights; patio
with inlet views in summertime. Wine list changes, but
always includes an excellent by-the-glass program and
artisan brews. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 601 Campbell
St., 250-725-3353. $$-$$$
SOBO
From its distinctive purple catering truck, SoBo (short
for Sophisticated Bohemian) serves a focussed blend
of worldly street-food classics. Mosey up truck-side
for crispy polenta fries ($8), fish tacos ($6) or wild-salmon-stuffed
inari pockets ($3.75-4). Chef and co-owner Lisa Ahier
has taken over the neighbouring restaurant (formerly
Café Pamplona), continuing with simple bold flavours
using B.C. wild caught fish and Island-raised poultry.
Begin the tasty adventure with hemp seed-crusted oysters
($9 for 3). For mains, try the handmade parpadelli pasta
with duck confit, carmelized onions gorgonzola cheese,
arugula and toasted walnuts ($24). Wine list concentrates
on the strengths of the Americas with lots of Island
and B.C. represented. INFORMAL/CONTEMPORARY WEST
COAST. 1084 Pacific Rim Hwy., 250-725-2341. $-$$
TOUGH CITY SUSHI
A giant mechanized Buddha greets you upon entering this
sushi-bar/funhouse decorated with co-owner “Crazy
Ron” Vanderkley’s spirited collection of
vintage toys and memorabilia. Perched above Tofino Inlet,
get cosy on the sunny deck or sit up close and personal
at the sushi bar. The kitchen team dishes out a big
menu with un-zen-like portions, all perfectly fresh
and beautifully presented. The beachcomber roll finds
salmon, avocado and tempura scallop ($11.75), and the
salmon sashimi over julienned daikon is a fresh and
crunchy choice with an addictive ponzu-garlic-ginger-chile
sauce ($15.25). Simple steamed crab ($33.95) or half-shell
oysters for purists ($15 for 6). Premium sakes rounds
out the drinks list with island wines and brews. JAPANESE.
350 Main St., Tofino, 250-725-2021. $$
Back
to the top
VICTORIA
BRASSERIE L'ECOLE
Dark wood, burgundy walls and French chanson set the
stage for this cosy Canadian brasserie. Chef Sean Brennan’s
petit plats take flight with frisée aux lardons
with local hazelnuts ($8) or smoked albacore tuna with
farm-fresh tomatoes ($10). For those on the frites they’re
amply tossed in truffle oil, garlic, parsley and parmesan
($7), a bon ami to steak ($23-27) or a huge bowl of
steamed mussels ($19). Comfortable bar seating allows
for easy navigation through the French, Belgian and
Québec brews outdone only by sommelier Marc Morrison’s
best wine picks—commit to two glasses and any
bottle will be opened. Welcome in the spring with the
new garden patio. French. 1715 Government St., 250-475-6260,
lecole.ca. $$
CAFE BRIO
A charcuterie-curing room built by newly appointed chef
Lawrence Munn—a Scott Jaeger protégé—has
added increased depth to Brio’s Italian-sponsored
menu. From coppa to braesola to paté to the daily
sausage—even cheeses!—Munn’s talents
are abundant. Menu changes weekly (even daily) to reflect
what’s fresh and available. Sweetbread stuffed
ravioli with grilled scallions in a red wine sauce is
seductive and mains like local lamb stuffed with lamb
kidneys, pine nuts and ricotta cheese over a ragout
of favas, morels and fingerling potatoes miraculous.
Consummate hosts Greg Hays and Silvia Marcolini warmly
work the room along with a pro-staff. Wine list is extensive
with many unsung B.C. wines, worldly picks, and rarieties,
all reasonably priced. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
944 Fort St., 250-383-0009. $$$-$$$$
CAFE VIEUX MONTREAL
While we love their pure butter croissants ($2.25) and
artisan baking, and while an ancho-spiced pulled pork
sandwich ($8.95) or sautéed chicken livers might
entice for lunch, our real mission here is for Montrealers
Pierre and Danielle Bourget’s house-smoked meat.
Brined for three days, then covered in cracked pepper
and coriander, it’s smoked over apple wood before
being slow roasted. The resulting juicy delicacy is
served warm between house rye bread with,
quite simply, the world’s best pickle ($7.25).
INFORMAL. 1314 Government St., 250-382-7700. $
CAMILLE'S
Don’t let the dark reception area deter you: culinary
fireworks await at the end of the cavernous room. Co-owner
and chef David Mincey heads up the Island Chef’s
Collaborative, working to create sustainable food and
agriculture systems—his thoughtfully crafted menu
embodies that mandate. Begin the tour with heirloom
tomato salad complemented with a basil and sour cream
sorbet. Mains ($22-$26) are substantial: Island-raised
free-run venison sees a dried fruit and sausage bread
pudding with a sambaar spice rib and Calmyrna fig demiglace.
Fairly priced wine card is heavy on B.C. but with some
Old World bottles. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 45 Bastion
Square, 250-381-3433. $$$
CANOE BREWPUB, RESTAURANT
AND MARINA
A beautiful room, spacious with polished wood and floor-to-ceiling
windows—also home to one of the best waterfront
patios in the city. Order on-site brews of the lager,
bitter and ale variety by the sample—a wooden
carrier of five small glasses—and get comfortable.
Chef Alain Léger (a Michael Noble protégé)
has reinvigorated the menu, balancing standard pub fare
with casual fine dining choices: local ling cod and
chips ($13.50-19)—given as much attention as a
mezze platter with minted feta and Turkish flatbread
($16)—to Irish comfort food found in pot pie and
organic green salad ($15). Impressive, award-winning
wine list appeals to every taste and pocketbook.
INFORMAL. 450 Swift St., 250-361-1940. $$
DAIDOCO
Japanese cuisine with much-deserved cult following.
Owners Naotatsu Ito and his wife Kaori offer a simple,
swiftly changing lunch menu made with care, creativity
and precision. The rice bowls topped with plump eel,
chicken teriyaki or marinated salmon, provide terrific
value ($5.50-6.50). Steadfast dessert following for
saffron cake ($1.50), green tea cookies ($0.40) and
organic strawberry mochi cakes ($2). Sadly, only open
Monday to Friday. JAPANESE. 633 Courtney St., 250-388-7383
$
FAIRFIELD FISH AND CHIPS
New owners Rob and Sandy Russell know not to mess with
tradition. Cod ($7.10), rockfish ($5.99), halibut ($7.95)
and haddock ($7.35) are salt-and-battered; chunky hand-cut
potatoes fried in beef fat and wrapped in newsprint
are perfect. The monstrous burgers, bursting with thick-cut
tomatoes, cheddar and fried onions, ooze from the edges
of a substantial bun ($8.30). Extra napkins highly recommended.
INFORMAL. 1275 Fairfield Rd., 250-380-6880. $
FERRIS' OYSTER BAR & GRILL
AND UPSTAIRS
Crowded clubhouse feel brings in Victoria’s boho
element along with students, families and friends, where
legendary back booths have been known to double as alternative-theatre
venues. While oysters are the mainstay—prepared
15 ways—there are plenty of seafood cuts and meat
options. Deep bowls of chicken penne soup with rice
dumplings are a winter mainstay ($6), and the legendary
Chicago-style fries are tossed with celery salt ($2).
Signature dessert of deep-fried rice fritters are served
hot, shaken in a brown paper bag laced with icing sugar
($4.50). The Upstairs dining lounge offers a quiet respite
from the downstairs frenzy, with leather couches and
a snack-wise menu to pair with drinks. Go for comfort
fare like salmon with smoked paprika aïoli ($18)
or red-wine-braised short ribs ($18). INFORMAL.
536 Yates St., 250-360-1824; Upstairs, 250-382-2344.
$$
GLO EURO PUB AND GRILL
Condo owners, locals and kayakers find their way to
the circular patio here offering a pristine and peaceful
setting overlooking the Gorge Waterway. This is a popular
business lunch getaway to crunch numbers over Voss water,
burgers ($10-12), salads ($9-14) and seafood plates
($11-18). Over 40 global brews of the boutique kind
with 12 on tap, mainland champ Russell among them. Wine
list creatively wrought with 18 by-the-glass, many offered
nowhere else. Late-night menu offered after 10 p.m.
INFORMAL. 104-2940 Jutland Rd., 250-385-5643. $$
IL TERRAZZO
Big room, big portions, big patio—with lush gardens
and wood-burning fireplaces—keep the servers hustling
with a hearty meat-centric menu. Hungry-man portions
of slow-braised osso buco are served with smoked bacon
and heaps of saffron risotto ($25). Pastas are fuelled
with rich sauces redolent of marsala, mushrooms, sundried
tomatoes, cream and gorgonzola ($18-22). The wood-fire
pizzas are perfect for a business lunch or first date
($15-17). Lusty wine list—with 17 by-the-glass—flows
from New World to Old World with a concentration on
super Tuscans. ITALIAN. 555 Johnson St., 250-361-0028.
$$-$$$
J&J WONTON NOODLE HOUSE
Start with chef Joseph Wong’s modern Hong Kong
flourish of sweet custard and fruit egg rolls ($1.50).
Iconic, fresh-made noodles ($8.95-13.95) and wontons
($6.95) are a solid bet, but daily specials showcase
wild salmon ($17.95) or Szechuan-style rack of lamb
affirming that J&J’s second-tier menu is serious
($19.95). The kitchen here is glassed in, so that you
can watch the chefs spinning out noodles and expertly
whisk soups. Chinese beer and a smart selection of B.C.
wines including Island champ, Venturi-Schulze. CHINESE.
1012 Fort St., 250-383-0680. $-$$
JOHN'S NOODLE VILLAGE
Don’t let the plain decor and dreary mall setting
put you off. John Yong, former partner at stalwart J&J,
offers the same house-made noodles and plump dumplings
in stirfrys ($8.95-13.95) and hearty broths ($5.95-13.95).
The Szechuan green beans ($10.95) are a must order—flash
fried and lashed with so much crispy garlic, chili and
salt, it’s hard not to lick the plate. CHINESE.
823 Bay St., 250-978-9328. $
KITTY'S HIDEAWAY
Join the gang of regulars that inhabit this meeting
place filled with thematic souvenirs. Owner/cook Kitty
Dang starts things off right with giant grilled cinnamon
buns ($2.50). Breakfast—served until 3 p.m.—restores
with hearty corned beef hash ($8.45), out-sized omelettes
($9.45), Texas toast and home fries. Lunchtime Monte
Cristos ($7.95) and the roast beef dip ($7.95) keep
the locals, truckers and tourists satisfied. INFORMAL.
3020 Douglas St., 250-361-2088. $
KONPIRA
Silky-smooth, buttery-textured udon ($8.50) is created
daily by owner Yoshiaki Miyata with special Japanese
flour. Get your fix of cold or hot noodles with nothing
more than a ginger-soy-sesame dipping sauce, or go sumo-style
with a Nabeyaki—chicken, egg, spinach and tempura
($9.50). JAPANESE. 680 Broughton St., 250-388-4439.
$
LURE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT AND
BAR
The open contemporary room offers spectacular harbour
views. The smartly pared-down menu concentrates on sustainable
seafood and a local land-based focus. Albacore tuna
tartare with capers and a sesame-chili soy is delicately
balanced with a curry oil ($11.95). Cowichan Valley
duck breast is served with an endive, bacon and white-bean
medley and a port and cherry jus ($29.95). Dessert finds
a chocolate “sundae”—a double chocolate
brownie with banana fudge ice cream, drunken cherries
and a bourbon dark chocolate sauce ($7.50). Sommelier
Jacques Lacoste provides a pro list with many Old World
favourites. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Delta Ocean
Pointe Resort, 45 Songhees Rd., 250-360-5873. $$$-$$$$
MARINA RESTAURANT
This classic 1960s polygon-shaped building offers gorgeous
ocean and Mount Baker views. Chef David Nakayama holds
court at the sushi bar, while dining room chef Jeff
Keenliside juggles a lengthy sea-and-land-based menu
balancing his local, seasonal mandate. Request a wrap-around
booth to enjoy seafood prepared simply with a beurre
blanc or more complex treatments like pan-roasted halibut
with snap peas, roast mushrooms, couscous and prawn
butter ($28). The lunch lamb burger on foccaccio with
blue cheese ($14) is iconic. Sunday brunch buffet is
a local fave, reservations a must. Wine list addresses
most tastes and budgets, from their quaffable Marina
label to vintage French and Italian cellar picks. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 1327 Beach Dr., 250-598-8555. $$-$$$
THE MARK
Chef Michael Minshull applies a nuanced hand to an inventive
menu that enlivens this rather dark and cloistered setting.
Spot prawns over lemony chervil tagliatelle with a cucumber
consommé ($16) is lighter than air; wild salmon
over fava beans and morel mushrooms, with young leek
essence ($30), or Cowichan Bay duck breast with chive
adn summer squash crêpe, also so. The drinks list
goes from artesian waters, organic teas and sake, to
Sooke mead. And the wine list—a perennial Wine
Spectator award-winner—is expertly served by a
knowledgeable staff. Reservations essential. Hot Tip:
the adjoining Pacific restaurant has executive chef
Rick Choy manning the bamboo steamers for killer dumplings.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 463 Belleville St., 250-380-4487.
$$$-$$$$
MO:LE
Bottomless cups of coffee shake off the cobwebs for
the hungry and hung over at this funky urban locale.
Breakfast restoratives include heaped plates of free-range
eggs, pesto-tossed hash browns, and organic sausages.
The Mo:le Benny twists the classic with a lemongrass
and thyme-infused bechamel sauce. Return for the dinner
hour, where the tone is mellow and the menu fine-tuned.
Mains are ambitious for a small kitchen: the spot prawn
agnolotti is a winner, served with pepper, shallots
and spinach stuffed dumplings in a spicy marinara. Small
but interesting wine card, commendable for a first-time
effort. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 554 Pandora St.,
250-385-6653. $-$$
MY THAI CAFE
Painted in the deep saffron of Buddhist robes, the tiny
space warmly backdrops chef/co-owner Lek Yeats’
homemade Thai food. While the popular pad Thais are
flavour-packed ($8-13), explore the road less travelled
with roast duck breast in red curry, a balanced and
complex mix with lime leaves, basil, coconut and pineapple
($15). Fish cakes ($8) are the cult favourite with a
sweet and tangy dipping sauce of cucumber, cilantro
and fresh birds-eye chili—perfect with a cold
Singha beer. Lunchtime combos prove worthy value. Quick
takeout, too. THAI. 1020 Cook St., 250-472-7574.
$-$$
NICHE
Inside its deceiving Victorian exterior, a contemporary
room refreshes. Amuse your bouche with Effingham oysters
topped with a seaweed ice cream or lemon sorbet. Ever-changing
menu (entrées around $22) keeps us intrigued
and sated: halibut with cauliflower purée and
gratine mussels, served with a bamboo-infused sablefish
rice cake, or pork tenderloin with a spot prawn butter,
caramelized apples, and potato fritters. Tiny bar area
provides tony cocktails, fireplace cozies in the winter
and outdoor patio skirts the gardens. Wine list offers
hard-to-source B.C. gems with worldly picks throughout.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 225 Quebec St., 250-388-4255.
$$-$$$
THE NOODLE BOX
A series of fire-breathing woks are the conduits for
Jodi Mann and Nick Crooks’s high-powered, if slightly
pro forma, noodle dishes. Ribbon, Shanghai, rice, udon,
hokkein or egg noodles provide the base for Indonesian-style
peanut, chile-plum, black-bean and Thai green curries
($8.50-12.50), all packed to go in a neat takeout box.
The menu has expanded to include Malay-style roti ($6)
with slow-cooked lamb curry ($14) and a smart kid’s
menu ($5-6). Increased popularity has spawned two Victoria
locations and one in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighbourhood.
ASIAN. 626 Fisgard St., 250-360-1312; 818 Douglas
St., 250-384-1314. $
PANACHE AT THE WESTIN BEAR
MOUNTAIN VICTORIA GOLF RESORT & SPA
One of five restaurants on the sprawling grounds of
Bear Mountain, Panache offers the loftiest views of
the 18th green with a meat-centric menu. Signature prawns
Panache, quickly sautéed and lashed with a lemongrass-ginger-chile-infused
cream ($16), are a delicate segue into veal chops, eight
to 10-ounce fillets ($36), seared via the Montague grill
with a temperature matching the sun’s surface.
Sauces, starches, and vegetables optional. Boursin potato
mash and Cabernet Sauvignon sauce is the classic choice,
or lobster hollandaise for something more caloric ($7).
Sommelier Stuart Brown crafts an ever-expanding wine
list, and hosts wine-themed dinners throughout the year.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1999 Country Club Way,
250-391-7160. $$$-$$$$
PAPRIKA BISTRO
George Szasz cooks his version of peasant food, beginning
with essentials from his homegrown produce and house-made
sausage. A house-smoked ham hock and foie gras torchon
($16.95) is one shining example that segues into Cowichan
Valley chicken curry with homemade chutney and ginger
basmati rice ($23.95), crispy, slow-braised pork belly
($25.95), or multi-layered potato strudel served with
duck confit topped with a sour cherry and ginger sauce
($29.95). Smart wine card is a balance of Old and New
World, and Island gems. EASTERN EUROPEAN. 2524 Estevan
Ave., 250-592-7424. $$-$$$
PIG BBQ JOINT
Chef and pit-boss Jeff Hetherington works a simple menu
of barbecue comfort food. Alder, hickory and cherry
woods impart a sweet smoke to brisket ($5), pulled pork
($5) and smoked chicken ($5), transported by the requisite
white squishy bun, house sauce and vinegary slaw for
zip and crunch. Corn bread has a gourmand’s flourish
with honey-thyme butter and the kosher dill on a stick
adds a sense of humor. House-made ice tea is the quencher.
Service is quick and spirited. Lunch only. BARBECUE.
749E View St., 250-381-4677.
REBAR
Inspired by Asian and Southwest palates, Rebar’s
cuisine of whole grains and organic veggies is never
boring—for example, the Monk’s Thai green
curry sees organic brown rice and a healthy stew of
oyster mushrooms, tofu, eggplant and Asian greens topped
with toasted peanuts (bowl, $10.75; full-order, $12.35).
Pick up a copy of their cookbook along with killer brownies
($2.25) provided by their nearby Cascadia bakery. Smart
B.C. wine list paired with the daily specials. VEGETARIAN.
50 Bastion Square, 250-361-9223. $$
RED FISH BLUE FISH
Former cargo container redesigned for efficiency (complete
with rooftop herb garden) finds new life on a downtown
wharf, where owner-chef Kunal Ghose—formerly of
Go Fish—and an ace team serve up a sustainable
seafood menu paired with locally sourced produce. Fish
and chips define perfection, but forgo the deep fryer
for the street-wise tacone ($5-12)—a grilled tortilla
with your choice of seafood packed with daikon sprouts,
crunchy slaw and lemon-pickled onions. Tempura-battered
dill pickles sing siren songs perched atop grilled scallop
burgers ($12), and sweet red curry over Kennebeck fries
($3 small, $6 large) kicks poutine’s ass. Bonus:
compostable take-out containers keep our eco-footprint
light. INFORMAL. 1006 Wharf St., 250-298-6877.
THE ROSEMEADE DINING ROOM
Housed in a renovated McClure mansion, chef Richard
Luttman creates delicate sophisticated flavours in a
state-of-the-art kitchen. Chilled green pea soup with
shrimp, frozen mascarpone sorbet and hrissa sabayon
is a refreshing beginning ($11). Mains move forward
with Cowichan Valley free-range duck breast with smoked
goat cheese ravioli, or local spot prawn and scallop
sauté with garam masala and fenugreek spiced
red lentils, brocollini and lemon confit ($30). A tranquil
dining room exudes confidence with a very well trained
staff. Cascadia wine list continues to be adventurous
and fun. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Rosemeade at the
English Inn and Resort, 429 Lampson St., 250-412-7673.
$$$-$$$$
SALLY BUN
A tiny space, chock-full of colour with a quirky art
collection, attracts a solid fan base. The draw? Cindy
and Todd Ryan’s baseball-sized doughy buns—offering
over 25 varieties of fillings. Morning commuters juggle
a scrambled egg and cheddar ($2.75), or blueberry-pecan
cinnamon ($1.75) with large cups of sturdy java. Most
return for lunch when spinach and feta or the veggie
burger bun packed with sun-dried tomato-pesto and brie
($4) vie for best seller. Dark chocolate brownies ($2.25)
or chocolate chip cookies ($1.50) are legendary. Enjoy
on-the-go or unwind in the back garden with a choice
assortment of magazines. INFORMAL. 1030 Fort St.,
250-384-1899
SANUK
Honey-colored teak, dark mahogany and a Southeast Asian-inspired
menu is the newest incarnation at the Magnolia Hotel.
Chef Patrick Lynch creates complex curry pastes and
spice mixes to salads, long-simmered curries and noodle
fare. The green papaya salad refreshes with hits of
fresh lime and green chile ($9). Crisp lettuce cups
transport a braise of chopped prawns and pork redolent
with coconut cream and herbs ($12). The South Indian
laksa curry, served in a clay pot, is pungent with lemon
grass ($16). Fun pairings with B.C. wines, inspired
cocktails, organic sakes and in-house brews from neighbour
Hugo’s pub. ASIAN. 625 Courtney St., 250-920-4844.
SMOKEN BONES COOKSHACK
In an unassuming strip mall with train track views,
hunker down on dinosaur-sized beef and pork ribs ($17),
or pulled pork and beef brisket ($9.55), slow-smoked
and lashed with a robust house barbecue sauce. There’s
also gumbo ($9), seafood jambalaya ($15.95) and cornmeal-crusted
oysters ($9.25) and chicken wings ($8). Sides include
buttermilk ranch coleslaw, barbecue beans and organic
collard greens, all complemented by Smoken Bones Ale,
local wines and a respectable bourbon selection. BARBECUE.
101-721 Station St., 250-391-6328.
SPINNAKERS GASTRO BREWPUB
AND GUESTHOUSE
With pride of place overlooking the inner harbour, Canada’s
oldest brewpub offers 11 serious brews on tap, including
Scottish ale, Irish stout, and seasonal favourites like
summer’s refreshing Hefeweisen. Chef Ali Ryan
has focussed the menu on what they do best, which is
satisfying pub fare with lots of local flavours: Island
beef (fed on the spent hops) for the burgers ($10),
daily pot pies ($15), fish and chips (with beer batter
of course), brick-oven pizzas with seasonal ingredients
($13-17), and stacked heirloom apple pies. The dinner
hour extends to include pan-roasted duck with heritage
apples and boudin noir ($22). INFORMAL. 308 Catherine
St., 250-384-6613. $$
STAGE
A sleek and contemporary Fernwood bistro from George
and Linda Szasz of Paprika Bistro fame. Begin with half-shell
oysters given a lift with white balsamic and preserved
lemon. From tender octopus and house charcturerie, move
to comforting plates of pork belly over white beans,
or chicken with pancetta and spetzle. Don’t miss
the langos, a savoury Hungarian fry bread taken to new
heights with Maldon sea salt and garlic or slathered
with artichokes, tomatoes and goat cheese. Inviting
price point and 17 by-the-glass wines—including
smart 3-ounce tasters—encourage repeat encores.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1307 Gladstone Ave., 250-388-4222.
$$
THE SUPERIOR
A 1912 former seamen’s club is the setting for
this James Bay neighbourhood joint. The salade Niçoise
($15) with honey-braised pork belly comes with a white-bean
mash and apple reduction ($13)—a rich, sweet addiction.
Strong Island presence in wine, craft beers, coffee,
tea, bread and farm produce. Live music nightly encourages
hipsters young and old to jam and dig the flatbread
pizzas ($13-15). The outdoor patio—set in an overgrown
garden—invites languid afternoons in the sun.
INFORMAL. 106 Superior St., 250-380-9515. $$
ZAMBRI'S
A perennial winner in the Vancouver magazine
restaurant awards. Rustic lunches announced on the blackboard:
fresh tomato sauce with house-made sausages, meatballs,
pastas and antipasti, hearty and satisfying. Key decor
changes and candlelight transform the room for the dinner
hour: vitello tonnato is seductively rich, fried mozzarella
balanced with date, orange and chilied local figs. Mains
see local rock fish pan seared with lemon-scented artichokes
and side of peas and organic bacon, and beef strip loin
with gorgonzola fonduta and truffle oil served over
polenta. Frances Sidhe’s wine list shows increased
strength with rare and unsung Italian varietals—many
by-the-glass—completing the picture. ITALIAN.
110-911 Yates St., 250-360-1171, $$-$$$
Back
to the top
BACK TO REVIEWS HOME
|
SUBSCRIBE 
