RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Vegetarian and Vegan


ANNAPURNA: VEGETARIAN CUISINE OF INDIA
Paper lantern lighting and darkly mirrored walls almost allow you to forget you’re at the busiest intersection in Kitsilano. Owner Suresh calls them “Lady’s Fingers” but by any name the bhindi (sliced, spiced, and sautéed okra) is a treat ($12.95). Entrees (around $12) come with basmati rice but try the paratha—whole wheat bread stuffed with peas and potatoes—instead ($2.95). Samosas ($3.95 a pair) are served with cilantro and spicy chutneys. Meals vegan by request. Wash it all down with Indian beer. The room, and the menu, hasn’t changed much since it first opened, but the food is consistently decent. 1812 W. 12th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-5959. $-$$

CAFE DEUX SOLEILS
Vegan friendly dishes and live music and spoken word performances attract young, friendly crowds to this café—a nighttime hotspot on The Drive to listen and be seen. Expect an even younger crowd during the day: fruit smoothies ($4.95), inexpensive burgers ($4.25-$7.25), friendly service and a children’s play area make this a popular breakfast and lunch spot for parents toting kids. Vegans will appreciate the tofu scramble—one of few breakfast items that don’t involve eggs ($6.45). 2096 Commercial Dr., 604-254-1195. $

DHARMA KITCHEN
Walk too quickly, and you might miss the understated storefront on this block of Broadway. It’s likely intentional: a kitchen serving “the food of mindfulness” should be quiet in its appearance, though bold on the plate. The menu items are deceptively simply titled—red curry tofu, lemongrass tofu—and yet this isn’t some bland vegan fare. The lemongrass version ($9.95) is a delight: grated lemongrass, spices and herbs served with steamed broccoli and jasmine rice is one of the most flavourful tofu dishes we’ve ever sampled—and there have been many. Salads are meals unto themselves: try the Dharma ($6.95), a bed of romaine lettuce heaped with grilled artichoke hearts, eggplants, mushrooms, red onions, sweet peppers, zucchinis and sundried tomatoes. Service is pleasant and swift, as is takeout—ideal for an evening beach dinner. No liquor. 3667 W. Broadway Ave., Kitsilano, 604-738-3899. $

FOUNDATION
Retro decor, down-to-earth attitude, and a menu of counter-cultural references, puns, and double entendres, give character to this plant eater’s paradise. Begin with the nachos—piled high with black beans and cheese and tasty enough to convert even the most stubborn carnivore ($7 for a small order; $11 for large). Discover the bliss of the Tropic Option—a complex curry that’s even better when served on quinoa in place of rice ($9.50). Finish with chocolate or carob (vegan!) fruit fondue (best shared among friends; $6.75 for two). Many vegetarian and vegan entrées offered under $10. 2301 Main St., South Main, 604-708-0881. $

THE NAAM
This vegetarian institution hasn’t changed much over the years and the lineups during peak hours indicate that’s a good thing. The atmosphere and service are as relaxed as ever and wholesome food is still served 24/7. Quesadillas ($7.95) and the dragon bowls ($9.50-$10.50) are perennial favourites, but vegan entrées, macrobiotic dishes, and a respectable selection of desserts are also popular among the Kitsilano set. 2724 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604- 738-715. $-$$

PLANET VEG
To thine own self be true is not a motto likely to grace the doorway of the latest Yaletown hotspot, but it should be hung above Planet Veg’s doorway. Grab a heaping masala roll with chickpeas and eggplant or Kathmandu roll with cabbage and fried noodles ($5.19), both overflowing with veggie goodness, and head to the beach for a guilt-free picnic. The prices are absurdly low for such quality fresh fare. 1941 Cornwall Ave, Kitsilano, 604-734-1001. $

SEJUICED
This earnest little Fourth Avenue juice bar just predates the current smoothie frenzy and its maturity shows. Its thoughtful array of fresh juices with handles such as the Zinger and the slightly ominous Liver Mover (12oz $4.00/16oz $4.50) are served by a smiling staff, genuinely concerned about the woeful state of your health. A modest vegetarian menu complements with faithful grilled sandwich with cheese ($4.60)—which we trust is healthier than a grilled cheese sandwich. We left as healthier, more conscientious human beings. 1958 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-9906. $

SWEET CHERUBIM
South Asian-style menu here offers arguably the best vegetarian fare on The Drive. Cafeteria-style line-ups allow time to browse the display case, but this isn’t ready-made food—good things will come to those who wait. Rice bowls with various subjis are the best deals (most entrées are under $8); the pakopati ($5.95) and moussaka ($6.50) are angelic. Vegans with a sweet tooth will love the chocolate bliss balls—if you’re already too full, order a few to go. 1105 Commercial Dr., (at Napier), 604-253-0969. $

YOGI'S VEGETARIAN INDIAN CUISINE
Mainly northern Indian cuisine, and most dishes are vegan and scratch-made on site: tandoori gobi tastes just like butter chicken, though in fact it’s a heaping plate of seared cauliflower in a rich tandoori masala. Complimentary pappadams with fresh mango chutney awaits as soon as you are seated. 1408 Commercial Dr., 604-251-YOGI (9644). $

 

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