West End
ASAHI-YA
Simplicity is the order of the day in this unpretentious
room smack in the middle of the hordes. The combination
chicken and beef teriyaki, served on a sizzling platter,
is delicious. So is the assorted sashimi, cool and firm
bites of the usual seafood suspects, nicely presented.
1230 Robson St., West End, 604-688-8777. $
BANANA
LEAF
Just
about every Asian restaurant in town offers up some
variation of a green bean dish, but the sambal green
beans at Banana Leaf are the best around. The beans
are ravishingly crisp, the sambal has infinite depth,
and the shrimp and tomatoes make it a wrap. Devotees
go for the signature chili crab; check ahead for availability.
1096 Denman St., West End, 604-683-3333; 820 W.
Broadway, Fairview, 604-731-6333; 3005 W. Broadway,
Kitsilano, 604-734-3005. $$
BLACK TUNA
Chef/Owner Jacob Jung performs inspired invention, blending
a menu of traditional Japanese cuisine pushed modern.
For lunch the baked eggplant with shrimp in a creamy
spicy sauce comes with rice and miso soup for $9.95;
a variety of inventive rolls are all $9.95. Dinner could
run you $29.95, but that includes the appetizer of the
day, miso soup, rice and dessert, and your choice of
items such as jumbo scallops with spicy bean sauce,
miso-marinated black cod or beef tenderloin with teriyaki.
202-1184 Denman St., West End, 604-408-7557. $$-$$$
THE BOATHOUSE
Prime real estate is why this restaurant chain thrives.
You’ll find locations overlooking the ocean in
English Bay, White Rock, and Horseshoe Bay. The menu
could use an update; rely on old standbys such as ahi
tuna salad ($18.99), a steamer pot ($18.99) and their
premium cut steaks paired with prawns, crab and lobster.
Nods to the seasonal changing menu and sustainable seafood
practice, friendly attentive service and B.C.-focused
wine list. 1795 Beach Ave., West End, 604-669-2225
(also White Rock, Horseshoe Bay, Richmond, New West,
Port Moody).
BOOK KYUNG BAN
JEOM
Newly expanded to include a karaoke
room, this otherwise tiny restaurant boasts some of
the best Korean-Chinese food in the downtown core. The
hearty ja jang-myun (noodles in black bean sauce with
ground beef and vegetables) is moderately priced at
$6.50 and the jam-bong (seafood noodle soup) has a spicy
kick. Points off for slow and inconsistent service (spotted:
server with lollipop in mouth), but the free side dishes,
including pickled radishes and kimchi, are a tasty bonus.
1638 Robson St., West End, 604-689-3898. $-$$
CAFE
DE PARIS
West End yields to Left Bank under chef Patrick Verrier’s
sure hand. Opt for his three-course table d’hôte
menu ($37), or pick and choose from à la carte
salade de chèvre ($9.50), tartare de boeuf, made
from hand-chopped AAA Alberta beef ($14 appetizer; $28
entrée), and a cassoulet Toulousain ($27) with
white beans, duck confit, pork shoulder and Toulouse
sausage. The frites are a Vancouver legend; the excellent,
shrapnel-laden baguettes baked fresh. Cap the feast
with homemade sorbets ($7) or the caramelized lemon
tart ($7). A useful rainy-day friend at lunch (the wine
list promises romance); the wild game festival held
in October is underrated. 751 Denman St., West End,
604-687-1418. $$$
CAFE
IL NIDO
This comfortable West End room claims wildly loyal regulars
but is also kind to walk-in tourists. Classic trattoria
cooking, good fresh sheets, consistent and attractively
priced. Neat caprese salad at lunch, coconut soup with
seared scallop and seaweed launches dinner. Move on
to peppercorn-crusted halibut or cioppino. Custom pastas
on request. Wine list reasonable; quality sherry and
port sheet. All-in-all a decent experience. 780
Thurlow St., West End, 604-685-6436. $$$
CAFFE
DE MEDICI
At this 28-year-old gem, serving Northern Italian cuisine,
attentive service starts at the door. Begin with beef
carpaccio, loaded with parmesan ($15), or assorted antipasto
($19) and the delightful ravioli con funghi with wild
mushrooms, ricotta, truffle and poached pear ($15).
Don’t miss perfect turns of parpadalle con anatra
(duck confit, porcinis and truffle oil, $24) and gnocchi
with wild boar ($24) or the deeply delicious gamberoni
alla Medici (prawns and scallops over risotto, $37)
and the lamb osso buco ($29). Good, if pricey, wine
selection from both the new and old world. 109-1025
Robson St., West End, 604-669-9322. $$$
CENTRAL
KITCHEN AND EUROBAR
Though the food hits and misses, the lack of pretension
and the fun, queer-friendly atmosphere keeps Central
full, especially in the summer months when the shady
patio affords shelter from a garish interior design.
We recommend the lamborghini, a lamb burger with gorgonzola
and caramelized onions ($17). The wine list is a punch
line shy of a bad joke, but the cocktails (best had
at the chatty bar) are worthy of a thousand lips. 1072
Denman St., West End, 604-689-4527. $$-$$$
THE
CHEF AND THE CARPENTER
This restaurant recalls a time when cutting-edge cuisine
meant tableside preparation of Caesar salad ($7.95/person)
and escargots ($8.95/person) baked in garlic butter,
both still available here. Dark woods, floral wallpaper
and, yes, lace curtains may remind you of your grandmother’s
parlour (is this where they filmed My Dinner With
André?), but food this good never goes out
of style. Duck au Grand Marnier ($22.95) and rack of
lamb with Cognac and pink peppercorns ($29.95) are time-honored
standouts. 1745 Robson St., West End, 604-687-2700.
$$$
CHILLI
HOUSE THAI BISTRO
This waterfront jewel sparkles for its authentic Thai
delicacies and spectacular views of False Creek. Some
dishes approach art in layered levels of flavour and
texture (often presented with painstaking attention
to detail), and a newly expanded wine list complements
the spicy cuisine. The goong pad prig khing (spicy prawns
with lime leaves and green beans, $13.98) delights and
the horw mok maprao (chicken in a red curry sauce, $13.98)
is served in a whole fresh coconut. Sip creamy coconut
milk and lychee cocktails on the heated patio while
joggers pound the seawall pavement. 1018 Beach Ave.,
West End, 604-685-8989. $$-$$$
CIAO
BELLA
A basic red-sauce menu announces heaping plates of pasta
mixed and matched with over 20 sauces; chef Mario’s
lasagne della mamma ($14.95), made with four kinds of
cheese, is the best reason to go. A small patio faces
Alberni Street, and the brief wine list is a bargain.
703 Denman St., West End, 604-688-5771. $$-$$$
CINCIN
The flicker of the signature wood fired cucina at this
rustic Tuscan tratt draws a steady crowd of visiting
celebs and local epicures. Chef Mark Perrier shows a
deft hand with his fork tender marsala braised veal
shank with rapini and lemon ricotta gnocchi ($45)—a
bone fide show stopper. Over 1,000 labels strong, sommelier
Michael Mameli’s award-winning list features an
unexpected selection of impressive rare and vintage
wines by the glass and patissier Thierry Busset’s
stellar desserts are world class. Private wine room
and secluded garden terrace offer luxurious exclusivity
from the boisterous room. 1154 Robson St., West
End, 604-688-7338, cincin.net. $$$-$$$$
DAN SUNG SA
Downtown but away from the pack—movie
posters and Korean celeb photos proclaim a friendly
spot that targets the young. Wooden booths complete
the Korean Happy Days atmosphere. 1221 Thurlow St.,
West End, 604-609-7095. $-$$
DELILAH'S
Just inside the canopied entrance to this venerable
West End institution lurks a night of martini-fuelled
debauchery. Extensive list of inventive martinis is
over 30 strong, luring thirsty locals. Sink into plush
high-backed velvet booths underneath muralled ceilings
and sample chef Jon Thauberger’s cooking. Dinner
is available in either the small two-course ($29) or
the reasonably priced four-course format ($41) or simply
à la carte, including gems like porcini-dusted
bison carpaccio and shaved manchego. Bonus: Open late
and two curtain-clad booths offer privacy from prying
eyes. 1789 Comox St., West End, 604-687-3424. $$-$$$
EBISU
Crowd is edgy Asian kids, decor equal parts sports bar
and System’s night club in its 80’s heyday.
Don’t be put off by some of the odd items on the
menu, they’re worth checking out. Fresh seafood
and greens dressed in a creamy dressing combine for
a sprightly sashimi salad. Tender chicken yakitori skewers
are meant to be shared, along with the massive rolls,
including a mackerel roll that is scorched with a blow
torch table side. Ubiquitous deep fried ebi shrimp is
paired with a house-made spicy mayo. Settle in with
a pitcher of beer. 827 Bute St., West End, 604-689-8266.
$$
E-HWA
E-Hwa bills itself as a Korean-Japanese
izakaya, the Japanese term for cheap and cheerful diner/pubs
and a favourite local genre. This one definitely skews
more Korean. A large screen playing videos of Korean
pop stars and loud music make it a popular hangout for
a younger clientele. Solid lineup of Korean specialties
and a few Japanese faves as well. 1578 Robson, West
End, 604-688-1322. $-$$
FALAFEL MAISON,
FALAFEL HOUSE AND FALAFEL KING
All three locations offer Middle Eastern takeout, a
cheapskate’s best friend. Cheap, filling and tasty,
the falafel sandwich ($3.99) partners a crispy and moist
chick pea croquette with a choice of lettuce, tomato,
tabbouleh and hummus tucked inside a pita. Chicken or
beef shawarma ($5.25) sees slowly roasted meat carved
from rotating spit and rolled up in a pita with hot
sauce and a choice of condiments. Don’t forget
the napkins. Falafel Maison: 516 Robson St, Downtown,
604-647-6450; 902 Granville St., Downtown, 604-806-0045;
Falafel King: 1105 Davie St., West End, 604-688-5536;
1110 Denman St., West End, 604-669-7278. $
EZOGIKU
NOODLE CAFE
Two downtown locations serve up inexpensive, authentic
Japanese food, such as stellar gyozas and huge bowls
of steaming ramen crowded with decent ingredients, served
hot and fast. The popular charsiu ramen ($7.50) is served
with tender barbecue pork, corn and bean sprouts in
a light miso broth. But beware; trying to get a seat
at high noon feels like a Tokyo commuter train at rush
hour. 1329 Robson St., West End, 604-685-8606; 270
Robson St., Yaletown, 604-685-9466. $
FIDDLEHEAD
JOE'S
A cynic might venture that this establishment would
not survive three minutes without the fantastic vista.
Wrong: Joe’s tries harder. New chef Jeremy Loewen
covers the basics (heirloom tomato and bocconcini salad,
$12) and pushes the envelope (curried frog legs on a
fennel and coriander salad with peanut purée
and chili, mustard and pomegranate sauce, $12). Truly,
Vancouver needs more seawall cafés like this.
1012 Beach Ave., West End, 604-688-1969. $$$
THE FISH HOUSE
IN STANLEY PARK
Popular place in the heart of Stanley Park to take out-of-towners
seeking a room with a view revealed in shades of green.
Sunday brunch is popular—reserve ahead, and revel
in ricotta pancakes or smoked salmon bennies. Dinner
should include oysters and a starter of prawns in a
roast red pepper, feta cheese, and tomato sauce, flamed-to-order
tableside ($14.95). Continue the seafood theme with
a cedar-planked trout ($27.95) or chili sablefish ($28.75)
or switch to chicken saltimbocca ($21.95). New ownership
has left things unchanged in the capable hands of chef
Karen Barnaby. Menu changes seasonally, so check the
website for details. 8901 Stanley Park Dr., Stanley
Park, West End, 604-681-7275. $$$-$$$$
LE
GAVROCHE
This elegantly refurbished heritage house in the West
End displays a progressive approach to classic French
fare. Chef Roger LeBlanc has a delicate touch with responsibly
sourced seafood, saucy braises, and a melt-in-your-mouth
duck leg confit. Owner Manuel Ferreira’s stellar
cellar (currently housing an eye-popping 34,000 bottles)
is one of the best in the country. Tableside preparation
of le classique steak tartare ($14) and Caesar salad
($9.50) are sure to impress, and elaborate tasting menus
with wine pairings are always available. This is an
experience you’ll want to savour—tell the
babysitter you’ll be late. 1616 Alberni St.,
West End, 604-685-3924. $$$-$$$$
GUU/GUU WITH GARLIC/GUU WITH
OTOKOMAE
Tasty shared plates reign supreme in these frenetic
rooms teeming with hungry ESL students and thrill-seeking
foodies. Like a bullet train to Tokyo, the authentic
Japanese tapas come fast and furious—plunge into
spicy hot pots ($6), grilled pork cheek with ponzo sauce
($4.80) and black cod with miso mayo ($6.30) that will
have you calling for another bottle of plum wine. The
best seats at all three locations are at the bar, which
provide an entertaining glimpse into the frenetic kitchen.
Check out the rotating daily specials and eclectic cocktails
to get things started and then slide into the creamy
almond tofu for a satisfying finish. Guu, 838 Thurlow
St., West End, 604-685-8817; Guu with Garlic, 1698 Robson
St., West End, 604-685-8678; Guu with Otokomae, 105-375
Water St., Gastown, 604-685-8682. $$
GYOZA KING
When Vancouver’s chefs dine out on their days
off, Gyoza King is a frequent destination. The house
favourite is, of course, gyoza—plump Japanese
dumplings. Choose among chicken and vegetable, pork
and chives, or a veggie version with spinach (about
$4 for 6, $7 for 10). Ramen or udon soup is popular,
the nabeyaki udon tops—it’s packed with
pork, egg, prawn and fish cake for $8.95. Japanese students
and tourists frequent Gyoza for an authentic taste of
home. 1508 Robson St., West End, 604-669-8278. $-$$
HAL MAE JANG MO
JIB
The name translates roughly as Mother-in-Law’s
place, and the most popular location sits right in the
heart of the unofficial Korean zone, a growing concentration
of Korean restaurants on the westernmost stretch of
Robson. Line-ups testify to its status as a top haunt
for swarms of Korean students. The menu is varied, offering
plenty of Korean favourites like seafood pancakes and
noodles, as well as more exotic fare like pork-spine
stew. The service can be spotty, especially at peak
times. 1719 Robson St., West End, 604-642-0712;
518 Richards St., Downtown, 604-688-0712; 395 Kingsway,
604- 872-0712. $$
HANABI
Ensconced on the second floor of Alberni Street, this
recently opened jewel glimmers with traditional Japanese
standards and a few surprises. A short elevator ride
finds fresh sushi as intricate as origami, cool and
delicious as it is authentic. Bountiful bento boxes
and crispy tempura, and the Hanabi house roll ($7.95),
with crab and spicy tuna, is garnished with pan-fried
vegetables in a savoury oyster sauce. The room is simple—head
for the wraparound sushi bar. 200-1050 Alberni St.,
West End, 604-488-0184. $$-$$$
HAPA IZAKAYA
Hapa blends casual Canada and young Tokyo to a soundtrack
as modern and loud as the dark, super-cool room. Young,
homesick ESL students and local foodies seek out and
share homerun Japatapas like the negitoro, sweet with
spring onions mixed with roughly chopped tuna belly.
Addictive Japanese pumpkin dip is served with crackers.
Must haves include the ika, a grilled whole squid marinated
in garlic teriyaki. The drinks list is fine, and the
quality of the food hasn’t wobbled since expansion
and back of house desertions. Owners Lea and Justin
Ault have hired the very competent Atsuo Nomura (ex-Bistro
Sakana, Yuji’s) to replace Takahiro Toyoshige.
1479 Robson St., West End, 604-689-4272, 1516 Yew
St., Kitsilano, 604-738-4272. $$
HERMITAGE
Hermitage is exactly what every city should be lucky
enough to have: a romantic bistro-style hideaway with
consistently well-executed food, a friendly demeanor
and a comfortable atmosphere. Chef-proprietor Hervé
Martin holds strongly to his French roots. The appetizer
of foie gras sautéed with Armangac ($26) is perfectly
prepared, and the sweetbreads and kidneys in a Bordelaise
sauce ($29) are as rich and satisfying as any in the
city. The west coast bouillabaisse ($31) is dense with
local fish and shellfish. The two-course prix-fixe at
lunch is $19.95; dinner is $39.95 for three courses.
More than 300 wines (some from his sister’s vineyard
in Burgundy) reflect Martin’s eye for high quality,
good-value producers. 1025 Robson St., West End,
604-689-3237. $$$-$$$$
INDIA
BISTRO
Pillowed booths, soft lighting from jewelled lanterns
and an authentic taste of India make this casual Davie
Street bistro a gem. Indian-born owner Kamal Mroke offers
a varied menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian selections
that are both accessible and affordable. Lamb methi
($10.95) with fenugreek and garlic curry, murgh korma
(chicken in a mild cashew curry) and a signature tandoori
trout ($12.95) are sublime, and Mroke is always careful
to tailor the spice to suit your palate. Be sure to
sample some of his homemade naan (the peshwari naan
in particular, baked with sundried fruits and nuts);
finish with some spiced chai and mango pistachio ice
cream. You could fill up at the lunch buffet for a mere
$8.95, but the best items are à la carte. 1157
Davie St., West End, 604-684-6342. $$
INDICA
Nestled in the West End is this cosy, romantic spot
serving some of the best curries in the neighbourhood.
The small but honed menu highlights the flavours of
northern India. Start with the samosa and bhajiyas ($5)
or the paneer poppers ($6), or, if you’re sharing,
the veggie platter ($9-$13). The lamb curry ($12.99),
butter chicken ($12.99) and vegetable jalfrezi ($10.99)
are also very well done here. 1795 Pendrell St.,
West End, 604-609-3530. $$
ITALIAN
KITCHEN
A decidedly modern sprint from the traditional Italian
restaurant, this newly arrived Glowbal Group property
rubs shoulders with Tiffany’s next door and will
match any Maserati that pulls up outside its slick glass
frontage. With just over 175 seats, the two-level space
is well kitted out with a 55-foot kitchen bar (gorgeous
white stools) and a glassed-in lounge on the more casual
main floor. Upstairs, the look and feel is more Miami
Beach than Milan with a white, red, and pastel terracotta
colour palette, a floating bar that is adroitly tended,
and fashionably dressed servers who have started out
strong. For dinner, executive chef Ryan Gauthier (formerly
of the Beach House) plates excellent pastas ($19) that
range from the awfully rich (truffle cream, Kobe meatballs,
tomato onion confit) to the classics perfected (aglio
olio, pomodoro, Bolognese) and dishes up dry-aged steaks
dressed in olive oil, passable pizzas, and quality bruschetta
(do the prosciutto di Parma with rosemary, $5). Wine
list sails the Mediterranean. 1037 Alberni St.,
West End, 604-687-2858. $$-$$$
JOE FORTES
Vancouver’s premier oyster bar, where 300,000
bivalves are shucked and sucked each year, is still
showing us how it’s done. The three-tiered seafood
tower ($145) is the stuff of legend, but Chef Scott
Pratico’s screamingly fresh line-caught seafood
and grilled-to-perfection steaks and chops keep up.
The horseshoe-shaped bar is a lively meeting place (thankfully
the drinks are more creative than the pick-up lines
you’ll likely overhear), where getting lucky often
means finding a seat. Stellar service is cheerily captained
and the heated roof top patio is open all year long.
777 Thurlow St., West End, 604-669-1940. $$$-$$$$
Joefortes.ca
KADOYA
A cosy little joint on Davie serving inventive sushi
rolls. Try the coconut-sprinkled Snow White Roll with
shrimp tempura ($7.50; but pass on the soy sauce, it
ruins the delicate flavours), the Rainbow Roll topped
with colourful masago ($7.25), or the Stanley Park with
yam, unagi tempura with green roe ($6.75). Décor
is minimal, though a wall of visitors’ comment
cards (one reader’s haiku reads: “Tiny Kadoya
/ Your colourful walls entice / Another fish dies.”)
provides plenty to look at. 1063 Davie St., West
End, 604-608-1115. $-$$
KINGYO
This West End upstart sets the standard for Japanese
tapas with efficient, friendly service, sake-fuelled
conviviality and a diverse menu of delicious small plates.
The sleek room, all lacquered wood and stone walls,
conjures romantic images of feudal Japan; the communal
table at the centre of the room is surrounded with green
bamboo, creating a private space in a boisterous space.
Ex-Guu chef Koji Zenimaru turns out grilled beef tongue
($6.50), chicken kara age ($5.80) with three types of
salt and glisteningly fresh assorted sashimi (3 kinds
for $15) artfully presented on a long shaft of bamboo.
871 Denman St., West End, 604-608-1677. $$
KINTARO RAMEN
The weekend queues at Vancouver’s definitive ramen
house moves quickly. Aim for a prime counter seat rather
than one of the dozen tables if you’re interested
in chef’s technique. The decor may be bare, but
the flavours are decidedly not. Cheap, delicious half
dozens of gyoza are plumply satisfying, but the main
event lies in the restorative soups. The miso soup is
a sure-fire hangover solution, but you’ll pick
up more ramen speed in a bowl of the heroic Forest Fire
(available Saturdays only), a staircase of jewel-clean
broth, burnt scallions, pork and tofu gems from four
different regions of Japan. 788 Denman St., West
End, 604-682-7568. $
KIRIN
MANDARIN/KIRIN SEAFOOD
City Square mall finds Cantonese-style cuisine focused
on daily delivered seafood. Kirin specializes in banquets
at a cost of $398-888 for a table of 10, but ordering
à la carte is also viable. Tops is the “gold
and silver lobster”—a whole lobster stir-fried
with veggies, its legs deep-fried with rock salt and
pepper. Service here is attentive and the city view—temporarily
marred by condo cranes—breathtaking. 2nd Floor,
555 W. 12th Ave., South Cambie, 604-879-8038; also 102-1166
Alberni St., West End, 604-682-8833; 2nd Floor, 7900
Westminster Hwy., Richmond, 604-303-8833. $$$-$$$$
LEGENDARY
NOODLE
This 20-seat, bare-bones eatery deserves its name. Celebrated
by Mark Bittman in the New York Times and scouted by
Martha Stewart Living, the all-day, hand-pulled noodle
show in the glass booth makes good theatre. Mr. Lee,
a physicist in the old country, pulls magic from dough,
kneading and stretching. In moments chewy noodles are
ready to plunge into the cooking pot. Must-have: lamb
shank noodles (No.25) in a garlicky broth scented with
cilantro ($6.80), defined and rich over al dente noodles.
For balance, try the tasty fried Chinese chive-stuffed
pastry. 4191 Main St., South Main, 604-879-8758;
1074 Denman St., 604-669-8551; Legendary Pasta Bar,
Metrotown Centre, 4700 Kingsway, Burnaby, 604-438-3166.
$
LOLITA'S
Made-from-scratch delights like guacamole with corn
tortilla chips ($9.25), turkey tostada ($12.25) with
pine nut and apricot mole, make this the best Tex Mex
north of the Rio Fraser. Also of note is the coconut
and almond crusted local snapper with yam and yucca
frites ($16.75). Festive atmosphere and close quarters
mean you’ll probably strike up a conversation
with a nearby table—the stellar mango margaritas
and ice cold south-of-the-border brews will loosen your
tongue. Open late for thirsty industry types looking
to get their drink on. 1326 Davie St., West End,
604-696-9996. $$
O'DOUL'S
A Robson Street favourite, O’Doul’s consistently
delivers all-day dining along with nightly jazz. Tourists
and business people alike enjoy breakfasts such as the
house-specialty: Haida Benedict made with wild pacific
salmon ($14) or a lobster, crab and shrimp frittata
($18). Lunch dishes are generous—try the crab
and prawn cakes with field greens ($15), a west coast
seafood salad ($15), a sandwich or burger. Dinner is
more elegant with jazz notes in the background. The
rack of lamb ($33) is delicious as is the spinach ricotta
gnocchi with grilled vegetables ($19). Wine list provides
excellent B.C. wine pairing suggestions for your meal.
1300 Robson St., West End, 604-661-1400. $$-$$$
THE
MAJESTIC
New Davie gauntlet restaurant/lounge bills as gay- and
straight-friendly. Stop in for the Friday evening or
Sunday brunch drag queen cabarets; kitchen can also
perform with tender calamari steak ($9.50) or light
and crispy spring rolls ($7.50). The juicy burgers ($8.50)
satisfy; the Thai curried seafood bowl ($21) is cleanly
wrought. Staff is friendly; house music techno and funky;
all-in-all a fun spot. 1138 Davie St., West End,
604-669-2013. $$
MOXIE'S
When you’re dealing with an indecisive group,
Moxie’s is an okay bet. The wide-ranging menu,
lengthier than any of its casual chain competitors,
has everything from clubhouse sandwiches ($9.99) and
chicken wings ($9.99) to cookie-cutter fusion like Szechwan
green beans ($7.99) and Tandoori chicken pizza ($12.99).
The location near GM Place is popular for pre-game nosh,
while the patio on Denman is prime real estate for people
watching. Now with 51 locations across Western Canada.
1759 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-678-9973; 1160 Davie
St., West End, 604-678-8043; 808 Bute St., West End,
604-696-9986; 180 W. Georgia St. Downtown, 604-684-8434.
$$-$$$
NAT'S
NEW YORK PIZZERIA
The authenticating stamp for any self-respecting pizza
joint is Italian lineage by way of New York. And so
it is with Nat and Franco Bastone’s west side
institution, which opened on West Broadway in 1991 (a
West End location opened in 2000) after the brothers
visited their Big Apple cousins to learn the family’s
100-year-old pizzamaking secrets. This being Vancouver,
popular pies lean toward the veggie side—Pesto
Artichoke, Tomato Onion Salad, “The 5th Avenue”
(spinach, tomatoes, sweet onions and feta)—with
a variety of pastas and heros rounding out the menu.
As cheesy as the New York-inspired artwork might be—a
photo of the Brooklyn Bridge, paintings of checkered
cabs and David Letterman—the thinly-crusted, thickly-dressed
pizzas are the real deal. 2684 W. Broadway, Kitsilano,
603-737-0707; 1080 Denman St., West End, 604-642-0777.
$
NORBOO
A university student hang out, with
loud Korean pop and rap blaring in the background, scruffy
tables and underwhelming service. But no matter—the
Sashimi Bibimbap is a real winner of fresh bright seafood
served over warm rice. The L.A. style kalbi (three boned
thinly sliced rib meat) is generously portioned and
glazed with fruity sweetness. The big attraction here
is the Korean-style hot pots—huge cauldrons of
bubbling spicy soup in which raw meat and/or seafood
are cooked down and then slurped up with rice and kimchee.
Bring your appetite and some friends—the hot pots
easily feed two to four people. 1536 Robson St.,
West End, 604-806-0369. $
PARKSIDE
Many discerning diners call this West End room their
favourite in the city—especially in good weather,
when the lovely, leafy patio lends the place a European,
al fresco feel. Chef-proprietor Andrey Durbach combines
his reasonably priced, seasonal menu with accessibility
and friendly, informed service. Like La Buca, the neighbourhood
trattoria Durbach and his team opened earlier this year,
Parkside is unfailingly cosy, cheery, and simply excellent.
Prix fixe menus allow you to go for three courses ($40)
or four ($50). If the carpaccio of octopus with warm
potato salad is on the menu, don’t miss it. Ditto
the lamb shank osso buco with risotto Milanese. 1906
Haro St., West End, 604-683-6912. $$$
RAINCITY GRILL
There’s more wildlife to be found in chef Andrea
Carlson’s storied local cooking, which weaves
a delectable web of foragers, farmers and fishermen.
Carlson seasons the seasons in her “100-Mile”
menu that changes throughout the year. From seven courses
for a remarkable $60, might find dishes of organic beet
salad in nettle and hazelnut vinaigrette, braised Matsqui
lamb with roasted sunchoke, spring kale and bacon jus
(pair it with the Garry Oaks 2003 “Fetish”)
and rhubarb confit with goat cheesecake. The à
la carte menu, a quicker study, is also a treat. More
than 125 wines by the glass, cheerfully explained by
manager Brent Hayman. Patio is designed for prolific
people-watching. 1193 Denman St., West End, 604-685-7337.
$$$-$$$$
SALTLIK STEAK
HOUSE
Another Fuller Bros. (Earls, Joey’s etc.) venture,
this time tilted toward red meat and redder wine. The
room is a vaulted playroom on the new Alberni strip
of haute designer stores, a catch basin for tourists
and financial district guys and gals. The room is understated
and attractive, a retro look back at steakhouse decor
but without the baronial bits. The food is modern; accompanying
the Canada AAA steaks you’ll find inventive side
dishes and now more settled service. 1032 Alberni
St., West End, 604-689-9749. $$-$$$$
SAMBA
BRAZILIAN STEAK HOUSE CHURRASCARIA
At Samba, the main event is the Rodizio—a Brazilian
tradition where servers roam the room with skewered
meat, carving tableside until you flip over a “can’t
do it anymore” card to signal your surrender.
Choose from sirloin steak, roast lamb, tender chicken,
sausages and pork, to name a few. The salad bar (included
in the price) balances out the meal with rice, marinated
vegetables and salads, black beans, and feijoaba (stew).
Lunch is $12.95 and dinner $25.95 (weekends $28.95).
Leave room for Brazillian pudding. Live music Wednesday
to Sunday. 1122 Alberni St., West End, 604-696-9888.
$$
SAVEUR
One of the city’s true unsung heroes, chef Stephan
Meyer’s gilded, frequently changing plates represent
flavoursome value on the plate. Begin with grilled squid
with chili, ratatouille, coppa and herbs salade tweaked
with sherry vinegar ($9), then head to a heady halibut
fillet in a thyme-cured tomato reduction ($18) or roast
pork loin with fennel, tomato, lemon peel and potato
gnocchi—all bound in a rosemary jus. At just $16,
it’s an outright steal as well. The wine list
is modest, but modestly priced, the help pleased to
see you. 850 Thurlow St., West End, 604-688-1633.
$$
SAVORY
COAST
Ex-CinCin Chef Romy Prasad and Restaurant Director Dee
Anand make exquisite cuisine accessible in this winsome
room (and on the large patio, which offers refuge from
the Robson Street hubbub). Wild mushroom bruschetta
with truffle oil and grana padano ($9) and the crispy
duck confit pizza ($15) stand out, as does the penne
amatriciana tossed with smoked pork cheek, tomato and
garlic ($14). Fresh lobster and crab from the live seafood
tank are deftly prepared to order. Limited wine list
is a tad wanting, but cheap cocktails and proper 20-ounce
pours of draft help take the sting away. Lighter-than-air
panna cotta ($6) is a must. 1133 Robson St., West
End, 604-642-6278. $$-$$$
SEQUOIA
GRILL AT THE TEAHOUSE
Westward leading, still proceeding after a quarter-century
of cuisine. The refurbished menu makes the patio an
afternoon delight for improved cooking under chef Michael
Knowlson at this walk-in, cab-out Stanley Park landmark.
Classics include quality (if expensive) lamb duo or
black cod with Dungeness crab cake. Habitués
use the wine list for snappy sauvignons and the starters
card for wok-fired squid ($8), open-faced seafood club
($13), or fish and chips with mushy peas ($16). Ferguson
Point, Stanley Park Dr., West End, 604-669-3281. $$$
SHANGHAI
CHINESE BISTRO
Consistently good food and cheerful servers with a formidable
collective memory have made this bistro a popular downtown
haunt. The hand-pulled noodles Shanghai-style are a
must; same goes for the chili wontons. Pan-fried live
spot prawns with chili paste and soya and salt-and-chili
crab are top of class. Adjust yang with a plate of sugar-pea
stalks lightly kissed with garlic. 1124 Alberni
St., West End, 604-683-8222. $$-$$$
SPICE ALLEY
If full-contact shopping along Robson
Street has left your stomach grumbling, Spice Alley
is an easy pit stop for fiery Korean fare. The vibe
is decidedly casual, the decor an eclectic mix of traditional
and kitsch. Menu descriptions are anglicized: L.A. cut
beef short ribs, better known as kalbi, arrive on a
sizzling hot plate—marinated in soy sauce, sake
and dried green tea leaves, they’re deliciously
caramelized but still tender. Spicy chili chicken is
a house special—sweet, piquant and sticky, it’s
finger-licking good. 1333 Robson St., West End,
604-685-4468. $$
STEPHO'S
SOUVLAKI GREEK TAVERNA
This is a place lined up daily for plates piled high
with Greek rice and potatoes. There is nothing all that
redeeming about the burn ‘n’ turn food or
service here—it’s a cheap eats and volume
thing. Menu covers the usual suspects such as spanakopita
($4.95) calamari ($7.45 for appetizer, $9.95 for dinner),
lamb, chicken, beef and prawn souvlaki ($7.95-$10.45)
and roast lamb ($9.45). 1124 Davie St., West End,
604-683-2555. $-$$
TAKIS' TAVERNA
A West End staple where the staff are friendly and welcoming.
Outstanding saganaki—baked cheese ($8.95)—and
afelia—pan-fried lean pork in a red wine sauce
with hints of coriander and garlic ($8.95)—are
perfect for sharing with hummus and tzatziki. Traditional
souvlaki ($9.95-$12.95) or kleftiko—roast lamb
($13.50)—will satisfy meat lovers; vegetarians
will enjoy the fresh spinach pie ($6.95) or the vegetarian
moussaka ($12.95). Lunch portions are smaller and cheaper.
1106 Davie St., West End, 604-682-1336. $
TANPOPO
Eating here and not ordering the all you can eat sushi
($12 for lunch, $21 for dinner) is like reading Playboy
for the articles—what’s the point? And frankly
once you’ve crossed the “all you can eat”
line (quantity over quality) this is a good bet. The
second floor Denman location is always buzzing, and
there are views of English Bay and even a little patio
up top. Now start eating. 1122 Denman St., West
End, 604-681-7777. $$
TAPASTREE
Pioneer of the small-plates movement, Tapastree introduced
the city (in 1997) to what would become nothing short
of a phenomenon that changed the way we eat—share
plates meant for grazing. Nothing much changes here,
thankfully, because they’ve got the experience
of wine-bar dining just right, and a recent decor revamp
has refreshed the room. Friendly staff will navigate
you through the menu, but be sure to pause over buttermilk
fried chicken or sautéed wild mushrooms on herb
bread with goat cheese. 1829 Robson St., West End,
604-606-4680. $$
TROPIKA
Detail has gone into both the room
and the food, a neat blend of southeast Asian cuisines
featuring mainly Thai-, Malaysian- and Indonesian-inspired
dishes. The chicken satay is exceptional with a side
of peanut sauce, mopped with fluffy roti bread. The
spicy chili clams, Dungeness crab and lobster in special
house sauce are equally good; order them with the house
vermicelli. 1128 Robson St., West End, 604-737-6002.
$$-$$$
WESTENDER KOREAN RESTAURANT
If a Korean restaurant’s authenticity
is measured by the amount of soju served, then a room
full of tipsy Korean students makes this dinner-only
barbecue spot as true as it gets. The flavourful pork
belly house-special ($9.95)—slices of pork grilled
at the table and eaten with spicy condiments in a fresh
lettuce wrap—is the only dish available before
9 p.m., but paired with a bottle of the aforementioned
rice wine ($12.95 per bottle) it easily satisfies. Service
until 2 a.m. gives ample opportunity to sample their
full menu (and drink more soju). 854 Denman St.,
West End, 604-693-2322. $-$$
WILD
GARLIC
Great value, effusive service and a creative menu make
this a popular West End destination, and daily drink
specials ($5 martinis on Fridays) keep the locals well
lubricated. Explore tapas dishes like the roasted garlic
and camembert fondue ($8) and duck leg confit with sour
cherry jus ($8), but save room for the frozen hazelnut
and candied garlic terrine ($6) for dessert. Rest assured,
not all of the dishes contain garlic; but this is a
hedonistic playground for those of us who worship at
the altar of the stinky rose. 792 Denman St., West
End, 604-687-1663. $$-$$$
WON
MORE SZECHUAN CUISINE
A second-floor perch affords diners a bird’s eye
view of English Bay and the passers-by below. It’s
a tiny room, to be sure, but the takeout trade is brisk
with west-end residents looking for a spicy food fix.
Start off with an order of minced chicken or beef lettuce
wraps and an order of grilled pork potstickers. Stir-fried
long beans are tossed with sesame seeds, hot chilies
and a healthy dose of garlic. Don’t forget a deep-fried
shredded roll to sop up the sauce. 201-1184 Denman
St., West End, 604-688-8856/ 604-688-8501. $$
YOSHI
This elegant second-floor room has one of the best patios
in the city—looking over Coal Harbour marinas.
If it’s available, order the kenchin-yaki: baked
sea bream stuffed with egg and ginko nut. Phone ahead
and ask for the omakase—the daily shifting, chef’s
choice menu that begins with sashimi—each with
unique and tasty sauces and sides, such as slightly-seared
bluefin tuna with crunchy slivers of mountain yam and
enoki mushroom sauce. Take chef Yoshinobu Kobayashi’s
omakase at the sushi bar—the choreography of steel
and flesh is worth the ticket price. Good selection
of premium sakes, some organically grown. 689 Denman
St., West End, 604-738-8226. $$$-$$$$
ZIN
Brazenly bedecked in crimson and burnt orange, Zin leads
a double life. A mild-mannered breakfast destination
by day, this stylish room transforms into a convivial
lounge by night, where Zin-tinis flow and big fun is
had over small plates. Breakfast features a sturdy truffled
mushroom frittata ($13) and a smoked wild salmon hash
($14) before sliding seamlessly into evening service,
when designer bag-toting shoppers come in to refuel
over artfully crafted entrées. Desserts are particularly
strong—try the spiced rhubarb crème brulee
with strawberry chutney ($7). Newly appointed chef Brian
Fodor (ex-Kettle of Fish and Gotham) brings renewed
zeal to this Robson Street staple, infusing his menu
with a strong Mediterranean focus and an affectation
for organic ingredients. Pacific Palisades Hotel,
1277 Robson St., West End, 604-408-1700. $$-$$$
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