West Point Grey

BARU LATINO RESTAURANT
A small Westside spot that typifies what a great neighbourhood restaurant should be. The 70-seat room is at once intimate and airy, the nouveau South American menu exotic yet approachable. Standouts include a Hondurian coconut ceviche ($12) which adds a smooth finish to the normally acidic dish and a Cartagena crusted halibut, a finely prepared geographical absurdity which at $20 is the most expensive thing on the menu. The small wine list milks the South American angle to great effect with a nice selection of Malbecs all of which are likewise reasonably priced. Live music on Tuesdays. 2535 Alma St., West Point Grey, 604-222-9171, baru.ca. $$

BURGOO
The excellent, gut-sticking stews and flavourful soups of West Point Grey’s Burgoo came to lower Lonsdale (and there was much rejoicing). Scan the wide-ranging menu of comfort foods from the wine-heavy beef bourguignon, redolent of button mushrooms and pearl onions poured over a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes, to the evenly spiced jerk chicken with sweet peppers on brown rice. This is studious fare that goes hand in hand with your all-night pre-exam cram or while researching a thesis on The Louisiana Purchase. It’s a bargain, too: nary a plate exceeds the $15 mark. 4434 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-221-7839; 3 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-904-0933. $$

DENTRY'S IRISH GRILL
Dublin, St. Paddy and tandoori chicken burgers. Okay, so a typical tight-assed North American might question the appearance of the Indian subcontinent on an Irish menu. Creep into this cave-like eatery, order a bowl of Irish stew with Gulf Island lamb ($11.99) and a pint of Guinness, then one pint Harp, then one of Kilkenny. Repeat if necessary. If you complain about this not being a culinary destination then you have utterly missed the point. Sláinte. 4450 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-224-3434. $$

ENIGMA
Appetizers range from nachos and chicken wings to mussels with chorizo ($12.50); burgers include a salmon with lemon aioli ($11.50) and beef with chipotle aïoli ($10). More serious mains number lamb, chicken or vegetable curry ($14.75), a selection of pastas, and fresh salads—the seven-herb chicken salad or the Thai spinach salad are loaded with veggies and make a great lunch or dinner (both $15). Save room for the delightful sticky toffee pudding ($8). Great brunch spot with a similarly large menu. 4397 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-222-6881. $$

THE GALLEY AT JERICHO SAILING CENTRE
A short walk west along the beach from the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club—but infinitely more affordable and less exclusive—is the Jericho Sailing Centre and its nifty patio/eatery, The Galley. Whether the salt on your brow is from ocean spray, disc sports or desk toil, everyone lays equal claim to a front-row seat for the glorious 180-plus-degree view of downtown and the North Shore. Order up good, honest clubhouse food with a fresh version of the “beer and burger” standard; The Galley Patio Lager is made just for them by R&B Brewing Co. and their premier burger is certified Angus beef ($8.69). Exhale. 1300 Discovery St., West Point Grey, 604-222-1331. $-$$

HIME SUSHI
A neighbourhood joint in the best and worst sense of the word. On the plus side are the new bright orange digs (across the street from the old location), and nice cuts of the classics (sake, toro). On the con, the menu features nothing but the classics, and the service can be distant and absentminded—no small feat in so tiny a space. But the locals love it (they offer free delivery) and it has prospered on a block that features two other competing sushi restaurants, so they must be doing something right. 3-4480 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-224-2121. $$

LA NOTTE
This is the west side’s most classic Italian eatery in both the best and worse sense. Classics from antipasto della casa ($12.95) to zuppe minestone ($5.50) with every recognizable name in between are well prepared and delivered by an accommodating, collegial staff. But while the menu reassures with familiarity it lacks something in imagination—Mario Batali this is not. The pleasant, warm room seems to be conceived by a Calgarian spec developer’s idea of “Tuscan,” but after a few glasses of verdicchio may lend a hazy invocation of la dolce vita. La Notte shoots for the middle ground and succeeds perfectly. Great weekly specials and bargain takeout. 3307 Dunbar St., West Point Grey, 604-222-4033. $$

MODERN CLUB
Like the Holy Roman Empire, this quaint Dunbar eatery is neither Modern, nor a Club, but that doesn’t seem to deter the throngs of locals who patronize this place—“over 90 percent Canadian” its website oddly touts. The specialty here is Okonomiyaki ($13.80-19.80), a fried Japanese pancake/pizza concoction that is native to Osaka and eaten with a cute little steel spatula. More common Japanese fare, like the well executed spicy tuna roll ($3.20), is served as well, but it’s the teppan fried specialty which keeps them coming back. A solid sake selection complements the fare. 3446 Dunbar St., West Point Grey, 604-739-0170. $-$$

PAIR BISTRO
Owner’s love affair with B.C. is made more than evident with the native art on the walls at this often over-looked west side room—it also makes a big impression on the plate. Feast on locally foraged mushrooms (the wild mushroom latte starter with truffle oil is revelatory), Dungeness crab cake, Quadra Island pink swimming scallops anointed with beurre blanc and Fraser Valley game hen washed in wild lavender honey. Husband and wife team Todd and Janice Hodgins front a menu that pairs neatly with an exclusively B.C. wine and beer list, paeans to our province. Service is crack and so are the cocktails. No reservations—call ahead. 3763 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-224-7211. $$-$$$

PROVENCE MEDITERRANEAN GRILL
Now in its 10th year, Alessandra and Jean-Francis Quaglia’s Point Grey bistro offers haute cuisine without the prices or pretense. The afternoon Grand Thé is a treat; for dinner go for their traditional fish soup with crostini and gruyere ($8) before tucking into a dijon and herb-crusted rack of lamb ($29). Chef Justin Faubert extracts every ounce of flavour from fresh, simple ingredients and bright green olive oils. Brunch is one of the best in the city and good weather has people flocking to their pretty garden patio. 4473 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-222-1980. $$-$$$

SAGE BISTRO
Amazing how few Vancouverites frequent this spot, given that it’s a microcosm of one of the country’s most beautiful university campuses. Pacific breezes and Howe Sound views on the patio. If the lunch menu includes the curried chicken salad, look no further. The wine list numbers many local bottles at very low mark-ups. Closed for evening dining, but available for special events. 6331 Crescent Rd., at UBC, West Point Grey, 604-822-1500. $$-$$$

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