Yaletown

AMARCORD
This charming and affordable Yaletown tratt, perhaps one of our most unsung, boasts thoughtful, mature service that stands out. Specializing in the cuisine of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, it’s a restaurant for grown-ups, foodies and those not looking to see or be seen. Start with a classic dish, melon wrapped in prosciutto before moving on to the “Zuppa Imperiale,” a flavourful Italian cold remedy—chicken broth with mortadella and egg. For main courses, consider the maccheroni with Italian sausage, fresh herbs and cream, or the honest piccata of veal sautéed with olives and capers. For dessert, you’re on your own—it’s all good. 1168 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-681-6500. $$-$$$

BARDOT WATERSIDE BAR & GRILLE
Service is casual but professional, led by general manager Jim Chan. The Algarve prawns ($12) sautéed with olive oil, garlic, peppers and cognac should give way to executive chef Christina Erdman’s’s delicious olivada-topped salt cod cakes. Highly addictive parmesan-tossed frites with truffle oil and preserved lemon aïoli; neat wine card. 1127 Marinaside Cres., Yaletown, 604-683-5335. $$-$$$

BLUE WATER CAFE
East and West worship at dual, dueling altars in this Yaletown seafood temple. Raw aficionados can choose sushi by Yoshi Tabo or a staggering selection of oysters. On the cooked side, executive chef Frank Pabst does the unexpected with sustainably sourced halibut with nigella seeds, capers and raisins ($34.50), and sablefish with tamarind-orange reduction ($35.50) as well as tasting portions of “Unsung Heroes” like sardine in escabeche and mackerel with beets ($18.50/person). Groups can never go wrong with the giant, iced towers of gorgeously fresh, unadorned shellfish (2 tier $78, 3 tier $138). Sommelier of the Year Chris Van Nus, whose expertise extends to saké pairings, has a new private wine room, seating up to 80, to preside over this fall. 1095 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-688-8078. $$$-$$$$

BRIX
Local and seasonal ingredients see plenty of play on chef Jason Wilson’s globally influenced “Modern Canadian” menu. While the small plates list remains the draw, the desserts are some of our most unsung. Follow up your cinnamon-seared Wentzel duck ($29) with dark French chocolate fondue ($19). If you visit in the warmer months, steer to the leafy, 40-seat courtyard right out of Greenwich Village. After dinner (or before) head downstairs to adjoining George Lounge for one of the city’s best hand-crafted cocktails. 1138 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-915-9463. $$-$$$

CACTUS CLUB CAFE
The Cactus Club continues to stay ahead of the pack with its grown-up dining rooms (the Park Royal and Yaletown locations in particular are standouts) and quality menu items. Think juicy, two-fister burgers, slow-roasted Jack Daniels ribs or fiery portobello fajitas and perfectly dressed salads. And if fish tacos—decked out with smoky chipotle and tropical salsa—appear on the specials menu, order them. The tuna poke and won ton soup are both welcome additions. 357 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-685-8070; and 15 other locations. $$

CAPONE'S
Hot jazz and cool martinis await at this Yaletown eatery, where, every night, live music reigns. And like fingers on a fretboard, chef Matt Kamieniecki’s menu strolls all over, ranging from tapas (sambuca prawns) to well-presented entrées (bison strip loin, $34), but Capone’s is best known for signature thin crust pizzas. Try the Alcatraz ($19), loaded with baby scallops, prosciutto and mozzarella—even better when washed down with an award-winning martini. That superb martini selection, over 30 strong, keeps the atmosphere lively even when the band is between sets. 1141 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-684-7900. Caponesrestaurant.net. $$-$$$

CIOPPINO'S
In Pino Posteraro’s Dover sole, a French classic meets Italian ingredients to create light, soulful Mediterranean cuisine. Other longtime favourites, like his crispy rotisserie chicken ($26), appear on a crowd-pleasing “classics” section of the menu. Less concerned with price are diners eyeing up the $2.5 million, 2,600-label cellar of vino options. The Enoteca space next door now opens for lunch only in December and through summer; during dinner, both spaces operate seamlessly as one, with a warren of elegantly appointed private room options seating 20-200. We like the Mama Paula wine room for the same reasons we love the comfort-food fettucine with zucchini and ricotta ($20) “like my sisters make,” as Posteraro notes. 1133 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-688-7466. $$$-$$$$

COAST
Book a seat at Chef Sean Riley’s tasting table ($70) and watch one of Vancouver’s most talented chefs go to work, using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Though seafood is the star of both the tasting and à la carte menus—try the succulent king crab legs with gnocchi ($31) or the 7-spiced ahi tuna ($30)—don’t underestimate the beef tenderloin ($32) which is poached to perfection in red wine. The dessert menu is also seasonal, but try the decadent peanut butter bar if you can get it—Reese’s can only dream of being this good. 1257 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-685-5010. $$$

DIX BARBECUE & BREWERY
Slow-cooked barbecue and microbrewed beers welcome diners, especially before and after sporting events. Best in show: pulled pork shoulder, back ribs (pair with Red Truck ale) and Kentucky-style smoked brisket. Apple-smoke half-chicken rides shotgun with tropical lager. 871 Beatty St., Yaletown, 604-682-2739. $$

THE ELBOW ROOM
Slinging hash and insults for over 20 years, this kitschy Davie Street diner is a must visit. Expect to be taunted mercilessly by sardonic servers for such grievous infractions as ordering incorrectly or not observing “The Rules,” featured prominently above the entrance (eg. Rule #1: Want more coffee? Then get it yourself or hire a butler!). Signature pancakes are available in either 6” or 12” sizes. Those unable to finish those whopping breakfasts will not only incur the server’s playful wrath, but will also be expected to make a charitable contribution to A Loving Spoonful. 560 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-685-3628. $

ELIXIR
Executive chef Don Letendre continues to excel, treating his Brollywood guests at the Opus Hotel and Yaletown glitterati to classic brasserie fare—prepped with modern, cosmopolitan flair. It’s an all-day affair with very good breakfasts of eggs Catalan, leading into an extensive lunch card that pleases the expense-account crowd. The Northridge Farms ribeye cometh in the evening, suited up in the guise of a classic steak frites (choose the béarnaise over the peppercorn sauce), arguably the best in town. Close with a classic apple tarte Tatin with crème fraîche. Next door Opus Lounge’s ambitious tapas card provides a modern contrast. Opus Hotel, 350 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-642-0557. Elixirrestaurant.ca. $$-$$$

EZOGIKU NOODLE CAFE
Two downtown locations serve up inexpensive, authentic Japanese food, such as stellar gyozas and huge bowls of steaming ramen crowded with decent ingredients, served hot and fast. The popular charsiu ramen ($7.50) is served with tender barbecue pork, corn and bean sprouts in a light miso broth. But beware; trying to get a seat at high noon feels like a Tokyo commuter train at rush hour. 1329 Robson St., West End, 604-685-8606; 270 Robson St., Yaletown, 604-685-9466. $

GLOWBAL
The modern interior is as cool as ever, and chef John Crook’s globally inspired fare continues to please film stars and local hipsters at night while inexpensively feeding shoppers (from an impressive lunch card) by day. Service can be spotty, especially on weekends when the room is swamped. Must-haves include the cheese tortellini with smoked chicken in a velvety tomato cream. 1079 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-602-0835. $$-$$$

GOLDFISH PACIFIC KITCHEN
Chef William Tse has created a menu full of fresh, modern dishes meant for sharing; try prawn and chicken gyoza ($9) and sugar cane skewered prawns ($18). The decor is the real show stopper: tables and bar back are made of rare Canadian marble with pale blue veining, and the bar area is full of Missoni-print Philippe Starck Mademoiselle chairs. Simply stunning. 1118 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-689-8318. $$$ Goldfishkitchen.com

HAMILTON STREET GRILL
Chef-owner Neil Wyles’s Yaletown steakhouse features Angus steaks, seafood and braises. But insiders order the flavour-packed hanger or sirloin steaks, served with a whomp of roasted-garlic-mashed potatoes and a turn of seasonal vegetables. The roasted tomato soup carries a backsplash of aromatic gin. Prices compare very favourably with other Vancouver steakhouses: a grilled sirloin is $22, and a hefty 20-oz New York $38. Add a half pound of Alaskan king crab for $16. Don’t leave without sampling the house-made gingerbread pudding. And watch for wildly popular, bargain-rate wine socials featuring leading local and long-distance brands. 1009 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-331-1511. $$-$$$

HOMER CAFE
Plastic bonsai trees and Nabob coffee cups contribute to the truly retro charm of Homer Café, where you’ll find one of the best Denver omelette sandwiches in the city along with a great clubhouse. There’s also the usual glow-in-the-dark sweet‘n’sour pork and chow mein festivities, but stick to old-school classics like hamburger steak with onion and white bread, or the cheap breakfasts. Everything priced between $3.50 and $6.95 and the menu board boasts the slogan “Best Food in Town.” 892 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-687-2228. $

KING'S FARE FISH AND CHIPS
An old-style English fish-and-chip restaurant where plates of fresh and tender cod or halibut ($8.95-$16.95) are heaped high; scallops, prawns and oysters ($16.95) are a lighter option but just as tasty. Wait staff are quick and cheerful, but expect to share a table if you eat in. Or take advantage of the South Van location: hop over to the picnic tables near YVR and enjoy your meal as you watch the planes go by. 1320 W. 73rd Ave., South Vancouver, 604-266-3474. $-$$
Rodney’s Oyster House A no-nonsense fishing shack dedicated to the glories of bivalves. Flirty countermen work their magic on cougars and west end boys, shucking up to 5,000 oysters a week (and as many as 12 varieties) in this romp room. Chowders, crab, lobster, clams, even beefy steaks for landlubbers, round out the menu. 1228 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-609-0080. $$-$$$

LA TERRAZZA
This Yaletown room lives up to its name: in warm weather, French doors open onto a terrace, which pulls the alfresco light indoors. Chef Gennaro Iorio’s menu is inventive, modern northern Italian. Simple yet inspired pastas include the house-made ravioli ($22.88), and chewy little strozzapreti (“priest stranglers”) Bolognese ($17.88). However, the kitchen’s creativity shines even brighter when it comes to the mains: grilled bison in a huckleberry port sauce, with a pasta galette ($37.88); or pan-seared duck breast in Calvados ($29.88). The service is discreet yet attentive, and the enormous wine list leans toward traditional names, but upstart regions and innovative winemakers abound. 1088 Cambie St., Yaletown, 604-899-4449. $$$-$$$$

LUCY MAE BROWN
The patio dining area and the downstairs lounge have got it going on, especially on Friday nights when the crowd is young, handsome and looking to flirt. Food-focussed upstairs is mixed: farmhouse duck breast served with crispy potato and plum compote ($24) and filet steak topped with creamy cambozola and served with potato gratin ($27) are good but a halibut special underwhelmed. A sticky toffee pudding, with caramel sauce, roasted banana anglaise and cinnamon ice cream ($8) helps, but the dining room has room to improve. 862 Richards St., Yaletown, 604-899-9199. $$-$$$

PHAT
Getting a good, cheap lunch can be a tall order in Yaletown. Not so at Phat, a rather unorthodox Jewish deli right in the belly of the bling beast that’ll serve you a gin martini to pair with your all-beef kosher smokie and a cold beer to loosen the lox. Ideal for a mid-shop pit stop when conserving funds for faux Fendi. Counter service is remarkably swift, especially when hard-working owner William Kaminski mans the till. Plenty of sandwiches and several different bagel combinations can be had, and the patio is arguably one of the least expensive people-watching digs in the city. Still, the Montréal smoked meat is the main draw; it’s arguably the best this side of the Great Lakes. 1055 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-684-6239. $

PROVENCE MARINASIDE
Find one of the best breakfasts in town here: strong press coffee, flaky croissants, great preserves and shirred eggs. You’ll be in good company—this big room expedites a long menu, for the most part expertly and with a Gallic hug. Antipasti include a fine pissaladière of caramelized onions, olives and anchovies, and grilled squid in lemon-chili vinaigrette. Huge oyster list, loup de mer—even côte de boeuf for the very afraid. The fish soup sings La Marseillaise in a room that has found an elegant groove. And the people watching from the expansive patio is second to none—observe the beautiful Yaletowners (and their little dogs, too) in their natural environment. 1177 Marinaside Cres., Yaletown, 604-681-4144. $$$

SHIRU-BAY CHOPSTICK CAFE
Expansive interior of polished concrete, exposed ducts and samurai motifs gives this Yaletown izakaya a warm, modernist feel in winter; the outdoor patio takes over in summer. Legions of too-cool-for-school kids and young profligates flock and feast on affordable small plates that can sometimes border on the truly experimental (especially on the daily fresh sheet). But not even executive chef Kyo Lin’s more intriguing inventions can defeat the serious service issues that flummox tableside. If you can grin and bear it (and you should), aim for the richly flavoured Kobe beef carpaccio with truffle oil, reggiano cheese and Fuji apples, then give the wasabi-marinated octopus a go. Minced kurobuta pork gyozas—studded with asparagus tips—pair well with tall boy Sapporos. The “ta-ke-sa-ke” is served ice cold in a bamboo sleeve culled from Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple. 1193 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-408-9315. $$-$$$

SIMPLY THAI
You know you are in Yaletown when your Thai restaurant, in this case Grace Rerksuttisiridach’s Simply Thai, has a 19-page wine list featuring everything from Corton Charlemagne to rare Turley Zinfandels. The basics, such as a stellar pad Thai ($13), are flawless, but let yourself be steered off the beaten path to such unique flavours as the pla lard prig (whole fried tilapia in pineapple, bell peppers and three flavour sauce for $25.95) to see the difference between this and most other of the city’s Thai restaurants. 1211 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-642-0123. $$

SUBEEZ
Industrial style decor is softened by the legacy of years of dripping candles. Subeez is a popular after-work drinks spot where local techies share plates of organic nachos ($13), calamari ($9.50), and garlic-mayo fries ($7). Breakfast is served all day—try a mushroom and herb frittata, $9. The lunch crowd enjoys chicken and brie baguettes served with salad and fries ($13), sirloin, bacon, mushroom and cheese burgers ($13) and a selection of salads. All reasonably good, but the kitchen needs to find focus in order to be considered a serious dining establishment. 891 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-687-6107. $$

YALETOWN BREWING COMPANY
One of the first restaurants to open in our warehouse-cum-trend fretting neighbourhood, this brew pub/sports bar keeps things casual in an otherwise ostentatious scene. Pro-forma pub fare (sure-fire hits include the barbecue chicken or the “Best Vegetarian Pizza Ever!”and the beer-battered halibut and chips) pairs well with the lagers and ales brewed onsite. The large wrap-around patio hugs the corner of Mainland and Helmcken—it’s a prime spot for looking at people you’ll never see again. A new second storey floor is being added. 1111 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-681-2739. $$$

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