TRAVEL: JULY/AUGUST 2007



Greetings from Galiano: Spectacular First Nations art adorns the lobby of the Galiano Inn, not far from the ferry terminal.

Image credit: James Labounty

Galiano

By Jesse Spencer


The SKINNIEST, driest and least agricultural of the islands, Galiano (named for the Spanish explorer who visited the area in 1792) is also the easiest to reach from Vancouver. Nonetheless, it retains a largely unspoiled character. It’s home to several ecological reserves—Mount Galiano, Mount Sutil and the stunning Bodega Ridge—as well as Montague Harbour Provincial Marine Park, and Dionisio Point Provincial Park at the north end of the island.

From the heights of Bluffs Park, at the south end, you’re rewarded with a spectacular view of Active Pass, which separates Galiano from Mayne Island. Take a picnic and binoculars and you can spend hours spotting bald eagles, loons, cormorants and gulls. When the herring are running, California sea lions come to gorge, and a pod of killer whales makes its home in Active Pass.

The hiking, beachcombing, sea kayaking and mountain biking on the island are first rate; more sedate activity can be found, nine holes at a time, at the Galiano Golf & Country Club. But perhaps the most seductive spot on the island is a mere five-minute walk from the ferry dock.

At the Galiano Inn, on the site of an old fishing lodge, proprietors Conny Nordin and Mel Gibb have created an idyllic resort with fastidiously appointed rooms, a better restaurant than you’d expect (complete with a wine list that includes inspired selections from off-the-radar Vancouver Island wineries), and a spa in which to recover from the day’s exertions. It’s only half an hour from Tsawwassen, yet it’s as if you’ve stepped into a world moving in slow motion—all the better to savour it.



STAY: GALIANO INN
All rooms are oceanfront; king rooms from $299 a night; queens from $249. Rates include a full breakfast in the always-excellent Atrevida restaurant. 134 Madrona Dr., 877-530-3939/250-539-3388. Galianoinn.com

EAT: HARBOUR GRILL
This lively, low-key spot in the Montague Marine Harbour serves hearty sandwiches with salad or house-made soup prepared fresh daily (the clam chowder is a house favourite). Also recommended: the grilled lamb burger ($10.95). Beer sold by the bottle. Montague Marine Harbour, 250-539-5733.

GETTING THERE:
At least two sailings daily and most are direct, though expect a stop on Mayne on late afternoon, weekend departures. Travel time: about 50 minutes. Seair offers two direct flights daily. Travel time: South Terminal to Montague Harbour: 20 minutes.


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