TRAVEL: JULY/AUGUST 2007



The sea kayaking is excellent throughout the islands, and Mayne offers especially enticing opportunities. Classic picnic spots abound, and—Mayne being one of the less-visited islands—you may well have the place to yourself.

Image courtesy Mayneisland.com

Mayne

By Jesse Spencer


HARD TO IMAGINE, drinking beer on the patio of the Springwater Café this lazy summer afternoon, waiting for the float plane to deliver us back to the South Terminal, that 150 years ago the island was a buzzing hub of activity. Miners Bay on Active Pass, where the Seair plane docks, was named for the gold-rush prospectors headed from Victoria to the Fraser River, dreaming of fortune. The exquisite Japanese garden at Dinner Bay honours the Japanese community that once made up a large part of the population. All is still, shimmering in the heat.

A leisurely hike up Mount Peake yielded splendid views and, this day, not a single personal encounter. Back on the narrow road, a pack of daredevil cyclists raced the car for a kilometre or so before a steep hill dragged them from the rear-view mirror. One resident, whose lovely oceanfront home and acreage have been for sale since 2004, seems in no hurry to sell. At Bennett Bay, on the east side of the island, a stalled high-end condo project, for two years scarcely more than a hole in the ground, encapsulates the glacial pace of change here. Developers have long sought to sell time-share pieces of heaven to well-heeled mainlanders at this secluded spot; islanders, with a paradise of their own, figure heaven can wait.

STAY: BLUE VISTA RESORT
It’s just a minute from Bennett Bay and offers eight rustic studio rooms and one- and two-bedroom cottages (studios start from $95 a night; one-bedroom cottages from $120; two bedrooms from $140)—pets, kids and wood paneling abound. Kayak rentals, instruction and guided tours available on-site. 563 Arbutus Dr., 877-535-2424/250-539-2463. Bluevistaresort.com

EAT: WILD FENNEL RESTAURANT
Picture a small, warm room, a well-edited, all-B.C. wine card (bottles from $29), and fresh, often organic, coastal cuisine that changes weekly—go for the Crab Three Ways (crab served in bisque, salad and lollipop form) if it’s an option. Entrées typically priced at or below $20. 574 Fernhill Rd., 250-539-5987. Reservations not accepted.

GETTING THERE:

At least two sailings from Tsawwassen daily; most make a stop on Galiano. Travel time: about two hours. Seair offers two direct flights daily. Travel time: South Terminal to Miner’s Bay: 20 minutes.


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