| 
Just minutes from the Otter
Bay ferry terminal, Pender’s Hope Bay Cafe
has a sun-drenched patio and views across Plumper
Sound to Mayne and Saturna. It’s a great
place to linger over a cool one—the fish
and chips are decent, too.
Image credit: James
Labounty
|
North and South Pender
By Moneca Gabriel
ALTHOUGH PEOPLE REFER to Pender Island in the singular,
there are actually two islands connected by a single-lane
bridge. North Pender is the more populous, and home
to most of the islands’ 2,300 permanent residents,
the school, the town centre and the Otter Bay ferry
terminal. South Pender is mostly rolling farmland, but
visitors may know it as the home of Poets Cove—a
three-year-old arts-and-crafts-style resort on Bedwell
Harbour, complete with spa, restaurant and marina. The
resort is often credited with transforming the Penders
into one of the Gulf’s go-to destinations, but
make no mistake: the islands’ laidback, decidedly
un-touristy character remains intact.
When you get off the ferry or seaplane (the better way
of getting there, unless you enjoy multiple ferry stops),
the first thing you’ll notice is unspoiled countryside
where farm stands dot the roads—locals wave when
you drive past. On Saturday morning, stop at the farmers’
market in the community hall. A satellite farmers’
market operates at the Driftwood Centre, the island’s
ever-expanding retail hub (the Pistou Grill and Pender
Island Bakery Café are highlights).
Time is better spent outdoors, chilling on the sandy
beach at Mortimer Spit (Hamilton beach is another local
fave) or exploring hidden coves that were once the haunts
of smugglers who ran rum to the San Juan Islands during
prohibition. The newly acquired Medicine Beach Nature
Sanctuary is named for the coastal Salish peoples who
used the plants for medicine. Today it’s a scenic
hiking route, home to several wetland habitats, soaring
coastal bluffs and upland forest—the deer are
almost as friendly as the locals.
STAY: POETS COVE RESORT & SPA
Forty-six units in all, including 22 rooms in the main
lodge, nine villas and 15 cottages. The outdoor pool,
overlooking the Bedwell Harbour, is a highlight. Starting
rate during the summer season: $299. Early booking recommended
for weekend stays. 9801 Spalding Rd., 888-512-7638/250-629-2100.
Poetscove.com
EAT: LOCAL PRODUCE
We recommend the Saturday morning Farmers’ Market.
Pender Island Community Hall, 4418 Bedwell Harbour Rd.,
250-629-3669. Southridge Farms Country Store also stocks
island produce along with European-style sausages from
the Sidney-based Starke’s Deli and Sausage Factory.
3327 Port Washington Rd., 250-629-2051.
VISIT: RED TREE GALLERY (PENDER ISLANDS ARTISAN CO-OP)
The inventory is a bit of a hodgepodge—and quality
varies—but the simple ceramics by Susan Tait are
charming. 3-4301 Bedwell Harbour Rd., 250-629-6800.
Pendercreatives.com/artco-op
GETTING THERE:
At least two sailings daily. Ferries stop at Galiano
and Mayne, and some weekend sailings require disembarking
at Mayne.Travel time (on a good day): about three hours.
Seair offers three direct flights daily. Travel time:
South Terminal to Port Washington: 20 minutes.
 BACK
TO TRAVEL HOME
|
SUBSCRIBE 
