Wine Pick: Brown Brothers Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir 2014

A Tasmanian wine at a great price.

Tasmania is 240 kilometres south of the Australian mainland, and its climate is cool, cool, cool. Although grapes were first planted there in the mid-1850s, the island state’s modern wine industry has only just taken off. It has more than 160 producers now, and pinot noir accounts for nearly half of the grapes planted over 1,800 hectares. (By comparison, B.C.’s plantings cover almost three times as much land.) Brown Brothers, one of Australia’s foremost wine families, has been in the business since 1889, and the company is clearly excited by extreme “Tasssie” (as its wines are known).It must have something to do with being on the edge of the world that makes this outer-limits pinot noir from Brown Brothers so captivating. A saturated crimson colour, its nose is striking with violet, black raspberry, and earthy depth. The flavours present a lovely mélange of summer pudding fruits, vigorous acidity, and mild but plush tannins. No oak is used, allowing pinot’s vibrant essence to surge in the mouth. Pretty and serene, it’s a wonderful introduction to Tasmanian wine for a great price—soft enough to pair with salmon, and robust enough for an herby grilled lamb chop.Brown Brothers Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir 2014$24.99Tasmania, Australia +555680