Wine Pick: Yangarra Estate Vineyard Old Vine Grenache 2012

Enjoy this complex red from the South Australian coast.

Grenache is a truly great grape. Native to Spain (where it’s called garnacha) and the world’s seventh most-planted vine, it’s what makes Châteauneuf-du-Pape so silky and spicy, and is a defining component in most Provençal rosé.Yangarra is a highly regarded biodynamic wine estate situated in the South Australian coastal region of McLaren Vale—a breezy maritime environment that stands upon complex ancient geology. Yangarra farms only Rhone grapes; reverential toward its ageing vineyards, the twisted limbs of 67-year-old grenache vines yielded just a few bunches each of potent fruit for this impressive bottle of fragrant, grippy red. Brooding crimson in the glass, the nose displays powerful and ever-expanding aromas of violets, dark cherries, and scrubby herbs. There’s a wonderful, aromatic sweetness on the palate of crushed summer berries, layered with dense oak spice and fine minerals. Supple tannins coat the mouth and the finish is lengthy, dusty, and memorable. Farmed following biodynamic practices, there is a vitality and energy to this concentrated young wine that’s instantly captivating. Let it breathe for half an hour before serving (or slosh it around in a decanter to aerate), and pair it with something robust, like grilled butterflied leg of lamb marinated in garlic and rosemary.(Note: This is a cellar candidate, too—2012 was a fine vintage in McLaren Vale, and its wines possess extra fruit depth.)Yangarra Estate Vineyard Old Vine Grenache 2012$28.99Australia +312595