Horseshoe Bay is really two neighbourhoods, distinct and dissimilar. The first, and more popular, is the crescent of fry-up restaurants and kitsch shops that orbit the ferry terminal. This is the least West Van corner in all of West Vancouver, a nexus where the mullets and mongrel retrievers of Nanaimo merge with the careful bobs and designer pooches of the North Shore. Those in the know abandon cars in the ferry lineup and duck into Baskin Robbins. No need to worry about looking touristy as you stroll the harbourfront—Horseshoe Bay has always been a picturesque picnic spot. (And it was a preferred campground of the Squamish people long before the invention of picnics.) If you’re desirous of less populist haunts, take the two-minute drive south into quiet Whytecliff Park. There the other Horseshoe Bay is hiding. The guy at Rocky’s Cafe hands out simple coffees, perfect for sparking residential fantasies while one spies on the silent mansions perched on the surrounding cliffs.



Since 1946, Troll’s has been a West Van staple. Score some halibut and chips from the takeout window ($12.99 for one piece—pricey but delish) and park yourself on the lawn across the way. Just beware of the dive-bombing, chip-stealing seagulls. 6408 Bay St., 604-921-7755