Vancouver Magazine
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This pocket-sized restaurant is home to some of the city’s finest sushi. Absence of a hot kitchen forces a precise, creative focus on meticulously prepared sashimi and sushi incorporating trad ingredients and techniques. The ume shiso roll balances the tartness of preserved plum with shiso’s unique spiciness. Try the kani battera, sweet crab meat sushi prepared pressed Osaka-style. Closed Mondays and holidays. 2081 West 42nd Ave., 604-266-1428
Chef-owner Ken Oda’s menu exemplifies simplicity and creativity. The sushi and sashimi list is succinct and painstakingly chosen, changing regularly. Oda’s calamari roll accents perfectly crisped squid tempura with the salty sourness of umeboshi (Japanese pickled plum). Assorted sashimi is expertly trimmed and artfully plated. Closed Tuesdays.2611 West Broadway, 604-677-6930. Danrestaurant.com
Executive chef Masa Kudo, formerly of Tojo’s and Blue Water Café’s Raw Bar, heads up the sushi bar together with chef Atsu Inomata, once head chef at Sakai. Specialty maki include a lobster roll with mango, avocado, and tobiko in a pristine cucumber wrap. Kudo’s toro stack sees sliced tuna belly, lightly dressed and topped with a quail egg, fanned out over a pile of sliced green onion.1130 Commercial Dr., 604-215-1130. Limerestaurant.ca
At this Kits stalwart, chef Sada’s sushi list features playful flavour combinations executed with subtlety and finesse. The popular Yellow Submarine incorporates yellowtail tuna, mango, tobiko, oba leaf, green beans, and crunchy tempura; the Business Class combines both barbecued and smoked wild sockeye salmon with avocado and asparagus. Price tags, from $12 to $25, notch the upper end of the scale. Closed Wednesdays.1995 Cornwall Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-8971. Octopusgarden.ca
The opportunity to sample Chef Nobu Ochi’s exquisitely crafted, beautifully plated selection of sashimi, sushi, and innovative maki is well worth a trek across the bridge. Ochi’s Special Scallop Roll is a rich purple shiso and soy wrap brimming with sweet chopped scallops, masago caviar, and Japanese mayo. Tickle your taste buds with the Hamachi Peak, a delectable combination of yellowtail, shiso, and green onions in a tempura-crisped tofu-crêpe blanket.101–2332 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-0667. Zensushi.ca
At serene, elegant Zest, chef Yoshi Maniwa’s expert hand is readily apparent in dishes such as Four of a Kind: slices of yellowtail, white fish, red tuna, and octopus paired with four unique house-made soy sauces. At Shuraku, Zest’s hip baby sister, executive chef Masahiro Omori presents achingly fresh sashimi over crushed ice while rolling out inventive maki like his Red Torch Roll: barbecued salmon skin and cucumber topped with kimchi, kaiware sprouts, and golden tobiko roe, drizzled with teriyaki and karashi mustard cream. Zest is closed Mondays.2775 W. 16th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-731-9378. Zestjapanese.com Shuraku 833 Granville St., Downtown, 604-687-6622