Best Formal Italian 2010

The judges had kind words for Il Giardino (Silver), Q4 (Bronze, formerly Quattro), and Honourable Mentions Cibo and La Terrazza, but the room that got unqualified raves was Cioppino’s. “You won’t find any five-storey deconstructions or decorative squiggles and swirls on chef/proprietor Pino Posteraro’s plates,” said one. “Just quality ingredients imaginatively combined and flawlessly executed. The pasta dishes are uniformly memorable.” A sommelier mentioned Posteraro’s extensive wine knowledge and gift for pairing. Another judge spoke of the chef’s “culinary intelligence, fastidious attention to detail, and military oversight of his kitchen. He even does his own desserts, and beautifully.”