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Kirin retains Gold with an unswerving insistence on quality seasonal ingredients and an army of chefs turning out bijoux dim sum under a central executive chef. The five locations’ modern rooms are all well-maintained, alive with diners looking for their daily yum cha fix. Jade Seafood (Silver) pleases across the menu: innovations such as truffle-oil-kissed mushroom dumplings; fried rice rolls with shrimp, preserved eggs, and pickled ginger; and bitter melon stir-fried with olives have made this a real standout in highly competitive Richmond. Vegetarians especially appreciate the understated Dynasty Seafood Restaurant (Bronze), where they’re treated as more than an afterthought.