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An unlikely setting (next to a car repair shop) doesn’t distract from the generous plates of home-style Korean at Hanwoori (Gold). Our judges love “the big booths, the roasted buckwheat tea, and the full-flavoured dishes such as dumplings in the beefy mandu gook soup, and the jejuk bossam—luscious pork belly and oyster-studded kimchee wrapped in cabbage leaves.” Silver to Sura for great service and cleanly wrought cooking best seen in a seafood pancake that balances crispy lightness with a generous briny richness. Jang Mo Jib takes Bronze for its giant cauldrons of bubbling, spicy pork soup, sweetly savoury kal bi, and filling jap chae noodles that keep the late-night crowd sated (until 5 a.m., no less!). Honourable Mentions this year to Coquilam’s Insadong and Seoul House Royal on Broadway.