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Phnom Penh (Gold) runs as a family restaurant should: friendly service focuses attention on tasty food, from hard-to-find dishes like crispy frogs’ legs to the anything-but-ordinary papaya salad. “The rich, flavourful soups are second to none, and the butter beef is topped generously with garlic chips, cilantro, and a tart nuoc mam dressing.” Soup is the standout at Pho Thai Hoa (Silver) as well, especially the pho dac biet—a beef lover’s delight of brisket, tendon, tripe, and meatballs in a light broth. At South Main’s Au Petit Café (Bronze), the banh mi sandwiches deserve the lineups they inspire. (The Minh family has been selling them for 20 years.) Order iced Vietnamese coffee alongside. Honourable Mentions to Pho Hoang Vietnamese and Song Hong.