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La Quercia (Gold) nails excellence in all areas-food, service, wine selection-in a space too small to hide any gaffes.
Lupo (Silver), un-hipsterish in its devotion to a rebooted version of the 1990 original, delivers a knockout wine list and consistent menu standards in a sweet setting.
La Buca (Bronze) gives impressive value with pared-down classics; the chef’s five-course menu, at $60, is a deal not to pass up.
Honourable Mentions La Pentola della Quercia and Campagnolo share perfect pacing and a relaxed experience that belies serious cooking.