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Sometimes you want steak. Hy’s Encore (Gold) supplies beautifully charcoal-licked Prime meat in an unironic room of white jackets, metal platters, and top sides like cauliflower gratin.
Sometimes you want sizzle. Gotham (Silver) does expense-account dining with obsessive attention to quality: Prime bone-in rib-eye, insane potatoes Lyonnaise, fresh, over-the-top seafood tower indulgence-big flavours, big returns.
Hamilton St. Grill (Bronze) offers exactly what a low-key neighbourhood bar and grill should: quality steaks charred and grilled to perfection, homey easy sides, cute desserts (sticky toffee pudding, gingerbread cake), a nicely priced glass of red after work with the Canucks on the big screen.
Black + Blue gets Honourable Mention for glamour amped to 11 in a carnivorous room where power vies with proteins for dominance.