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At Cioppino’s (Gold) chef Pino Posteraro sticks to flawless cooking while accommodating the best of the seasons; put yourself in his hands and delight in nettles one week, fresh crab the next.
With chef Andrew Richardson, CinCin (Silver) has regained its vim, matching a renewed emphasis on modern cucina with cordial service and interesting bottles.
Q4 (Bronze), in Lumière’s old spot, has been the stage for underrated chef Brad Ellis since the room reopened a year ago; will newly promoted Alexandre Jolin keep the trad-heavy menu flying?
Honourable Mentions to Cibo in the Moda Hotel and under-the-radar La Piazza Dario.