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Via Tevere (Gold) is a true local room. It pays to arrive early, as key ingredients can run out. That’s not a bad thing: everything stays fresh. The pizza is phenomenal, but don’t overlook the rest of the menu, which puts great emphasis on properly executed traditional dishes. (Do yourself a favour: order the meatballs.) Campagnolo Roma (Silver) and The Red Wagon (Bronze) have together revitalized a stretch of East Hastings (we refuse to call it the East Village) with wander-in-on-a-Sunday comfort foods elevated by careful cooking and an eye to the value equation.