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We wouldn’t be the same city without Vij’s (Gold), and not just for having shown it’s acceptable to line up for excellence, no exceptions. (Take that, Harrison Ford!) Our judges loved everything about this South Granville staple: seamless service, revelatory pairings (see Sommelier of the Year), hospitality in the back bar, but especially sui generis flavours old (lamb Popsicles) and new. Rajasthani goat has been outstanding, and jelly beans on braised beef short ribs were no novelty: the sweet pops of fun gave a harmonious lift to a darkly spiced braise, roasted okra, and toasted walnuts. Next-door sib Rangoli gets Silver by hitting many of the same notes. Upside: no waits. Downside: a certain loss of flavour complexities. Sachdeva Sweets (Bronze) delivers pure northern Indian flavours quickly and for very little money. The room is humble but always immaculate; the staff seems genuinely thrilled to introduce people to something new.