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Alain Rayé’s La Régalade (Gold) outpost still sets the standard for a place locals cherish and others will make a pilgrimage to, for classic French dishes like rustic and flavourful housemade pâtés with onion preserve and a jar of cornichons. Charging hard in the rear-view is Canyon (Silver), whose unpretentious Edgemont Village location conceals a stellar wine list, Scott Kidd’s thoughtful seasonal menu, and the “perfect neighbourhood feel.” Gusto di Quattro (Bronze) expertly fills the need for a business spot with professional service and evocative Italian offerings.