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La Taqueria (Gold) is “still the king of authentic Mexican flavours,” said our judges, “which are translated efficiently, effectively, and deliciously on fragrant corn tortillas.” Pitch-perfect salsas, thoughtfully sourced meats, and balanced flavours result in an al pastor, for example, with a superior ratio of pineapple to achiote, and a pork carnita saved from excess richness by the judicious application of pickled red onion. La Mezcaleria (Silver) adds a welcome, fun bar for cocktails, tequilas, and the title mezcals, with solid salsas and tacos from parent La Taqueria’s successful formula. New kid Chicha (Bronze) shines a light on the happening cuisine of Peru with authentic ingredients and a modern twist. Top marks for tracking down ingredients such as aji chili, and serving classics such as beef heart skewers.