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This year Dynasty Seafood (Gold) stayed wonderfully true to the clean flavours and elegance of upscale Chinese cuisine. They do take innovation seriously, though: judges applauded standout vegetarian dishes especially, like steamed eggplant with preserved vegetables. Give them plenty of time when you order the chilled Dungeness crab-worth the wait. At long-time legend Kirin (Silver) you’ll want to wander over to the live tanks and choose your crustacean. “Play pin the tail on the preparation,” suggested one judge. “Whether it’s a zesty ginger and green onion sauce or spicy black bean, you can’t go wrong.” Hoi Tong Seafood (Bronze) recalls Hong Kong’s private dining clubs. A tiny room, with a chef well into his 70s, delivers restrained, ingredient-focused Cantonese cooking (deceptively simple-looking).