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The premier West Side spot, La Quercia (Gold) hums as affable service with formal flourishes supplies the bijou room with Adam Pegg’s spectacular pastas. Don’t miss the $50 seven-course family meal, the best upscale bargain in the city-and note (how refreshing) the kitchen will build it around your chosen wine. At Maenam (Silver), exec chef Angus An settles a world of experience into a handsome room of bright and balanced dishes. Thai food hit a lull after Montri’s closed; Maenam fixed that. Contemporary, thoughtful Zest (Bronze) is a consummate attraction. The menu ranges from the simple (kinpira-style spicy burdock) to the sublime (Kyoto-style soba crab rolls; yuzu-marinated sablefish), with the best nigiri and hand cones in the city.