Tantalus's pinot noir has a great line and length that pairs well with warming winter dishes.

It's true that laser beam-dry riesling put Tantalus on the map, but their pinot gets the same single-minded devotion, in vineyards alive with birds and bees, and free from anything unnatural. I love the fleshy red berries ripened in the hot 2013 vintage, the acid verve and nimble tannins, the gutsy, earthy pulse and the burnish of oak that draws out a floaty, silky finish. It’s a pinot noir with great line and length and just the sort of wine we need now for warming dishes like mushroom risotto, juicy wild-boar sausages or a roasted game bird. —DJ Kearney


Tantalus Pinot Noir 2013, $28