Eaters Gotta Eat: Alimentaria Mexicana Chef Martin Vargas’ Favourite Dishes in Vancouver

Here’s where the chef heads for the tastiest al pastor tacos, top secret smashburgers and best Mexican brunch in the city.

Photo: SMC Communications


Martin Vargas, chef and partner at Granville Island’s Alimentaria Mexicana, naturally gravitates toward tastes he grew up with in Tijuana, Mexico; the dried chiles in a salsa, the hibiscus syrup in a mixed drink. When dining out, he’s also drawn to independently owned restaurants showcasing their culture in unique ways. As he says, “The more spotlight we put on small businesses, especially now with all the challenges the industry has, the better it is for everyone.”

Slo Coffee on Fraser

4160 Fraser St.
A self-proclaimed heavy coffee drinker (”I can have five a day”), Vargas loves the minimal, wabi-sabi-inspired interiors and coffee program at Slo. “Since we launched El Cafecito [a cafe attached to Alimentaria] last year, I’ve committed to learning more about beans and the coffee-making process. Slo really showcases something special with their signature coffees. The last time I was there I had an incredible hibiscus espresso tonic: it had ice, two shots of espresso, hibiscus syrup and was topped off with a really good tonic water. It was bubbly, fresh, vibrant.”

Photo: Slo Coffee

Chilitos

2516 Prince Edward St.
“The best brunch in the city,” says Vargas of this Mexican pop-up that takes over tiny Carp Sushi a few times a month, across from Kingsgate Mall. “The chef, Alvaro [Montes de Oca], used to work at Grapes and Soda and Ubuntu. The egg omelette with truffle sauce is the best thing ever. He’s really good at showcasing a variety of Mexican breakfasts you don’t see that often using local ingredients.”

Ask For Luigi

305 Alexander St.
“It’s always consistent, their handmade pastas and kale salad are amazing—if they have the tagliolini carbonara, I’ll order it. Same with anything with rabbit or braised beef. Just an impeccable food and wine list, and the service is attentive.”

Chancho

2096 Commercial Dr.
“Great vibe, great Mexican food,” says Vargas of this counter-service spot on The Drive. “I get the Campechano—half pork shoulder, half pork belly—which has a nice fattiness and bite to it. If I’m really hungry I’ll order a half-pound with a Pacifico,” he says. “Plus, their bar manager has a great mezcal selection and the heirloom corn tortillas are always consistent.”

Lin Chinese Cuisine

1537 W. Broadway
This gem in Vargas’ neighbourhood is the local go-to for xiao long bao (soup buns), green onion pancakes and crispy chow mein. “They make it spicy, you know, they aren’t afraid of cooking the real way and not diluting their seasoning. I love getting take-out from there on a Sunday, when you just don’t want to go out.”

Photo: Unsplash/Bao Menglong

Gary’s

1485 W 12th Ave.
“It’s a beautiful place; every single part of their execution is perfect. Great for a special occasion dinner. They have a tasting menu, so it changes all the time. I love that it’s in the South Granville neighbourhood, which sometimes feels like it is lacking places.”

Photo: Gary’s

Juicy Joe’s

2211 Granville St.
Best smashburger in the city. I’ve probably eaten here more than 50 times.” This ghost kitchen takes over Paul’s Omelettery after 5 p.m. from Tuesday to Sunday. “It’s very simple, it’s kind of magic.  I almost always order the Juicy Original [with cheese and onions].” Rumour has it JJ’s will be expanding soon to a brick-and-morter on West 4th, so stay tuned.

Taqueria Chicatana

789 Gore Ave.
This occasional pop-up out of Chinatown’s Hunnybee only does al pastor tacos, Mexico City’s most popular taco, and it’s pure nostalgia for Vargas. “Al pastor is spit-roasted pork marinated in achiote, orange, salt, pepper. It’s very comforting and when I go, and there are always lots of Mexicans. They also have a veggie option with celeriac. I’d love them to be open everyday!” 

Western Lake Chinese Seafood Restaurant

4989 Victoria Dr.
“The best king crab dinner I’ve had while living in Canada. It’s legit—garlicky, soy sauce-y, delicious. When you order the full dinner they do a dried scallop and chive soup, noodles, fried rice—six or seven dishes total, all with the crab. It’s a great experience that represents that culture in such a unique way. A good one to go to with a group.”

Zarak by Afghan Kitchen

2102 Main St.
Growing up with an Iranian relative, Vargas would have a lot of Persian cuisine at family gatherings; Zarak’s Afghan food serves up some nostalgic flavours for him. “I love the eggplant skillet, the lamb shank is really bold, and their rice is enhanced with almonds, raisins, spices, clove, and cinnamon. The Mantu dumplings [with cumin-spiced beef] are also insane. ”

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