Best Thing I Ate: Too Good to Be Stew
Treat Your Feelings: We Have the Perfect Baked-Good Solution for Any Problem
Back to Hydra: Revisiting the Scene of One of Vanmag’s Most Controversial Reviews
Wine List: The Best Italian Wines to Try at Vancouver International Wine Fest
Find an Excuse to Celebrate, Because These Sparkling Wines Are the Best in the Fizz
Editors’ Picks: The Best Things We Drank in 2023
City Informer: Why Is a Hummingbird the Official City Bird of Vancouver?
5 Things to Do in Vancouver This Week (February 26- March 3)
Your forever home. Your forever fund.
Escape to Osoyoos: Your Winter Wonderland Awaits
Your 2023/2024 Ultimate Local Winter Getaway Guide
Kamloops Unscripted: The Most Intriguing Fall Destination of 2023
Protected: Experience Kitchen Brilliance: Unveiling the Ultimate Culinary Workstation
Vancouver-Based Fashion Brand Ization Studio Brings the Fun
7 Stylish, Statement-Making Jackets for Spring
The Marine Drive eatery makes a case for destination status.
I live on the North Shore and hands down the biggest downside of living there is that if I’m looking for elevated cuisine, I’m generally looking at crossing a bridge (or two) and then dropping the price of a cocktail on parking. All these names: St. Lawrence, Mak N Ming, Savio Volpe (to name a few) are enticing, but I wouldn’t know because, after a long day, they’re just too far.Enter Terroir Kitchen in West Vancouver. It’s the first solo project of chef Faizal Kassam, whose CV has taken him to “over-the-bridge” stalwarts as Cibo and Uva, Hawksworth, Bacchus and Bin 941.The menu is broadly “Mediterranean” and for the most part Kassam keeps it simple and steady. Dishes like grilled octopus ($19)—lightly charred and plated with fennel and artichoke salad, capers and an eggplant nero—show Kassam’s deft touch. The octopus is tender and juicy with none of the telltale rubberiness that shows up at the first hint of overcooking. Charred octopus plated with fennel and artichoke salad and eggplant nero.The steak tartare ($20) is close to successful. It’s served with potato crumble, sunchokes, black truffle and bone marrow custard—a lot of elements for a dish that normally revels in classic simplicity. The first three ingredients give a very welcome crunch to the dish; the custard, however, is one jenga block too many.But when served as a main, the bone marrow ($20), fares better. It’s partnered with an apple and parsley salad to cut through the richness and two slices of nicely grilled focaccia for indulgent slathering. It’s a nice take on a French bistro staple. Bone Marrow served with fennel and apple salad and grilled focaccia.So are the Downtowners and Westsiders suddenly going to start braving the Lion’s Gate? Only time will tell. Terroir’s strength lies in not overreaching—at its heart it’s a neighbourhood spot for those looking for well-executed takes on established dishes, but for the time being it’s a venture that those of us on the North Shore get to keep for ourselves.
2232 Marine Drive, West Vancouverterroirkitchen.com