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In a city that seemingly can never spawn (nor ingest) enough iterations of Asian street food, the only questionable aspect of Gastown’s recently opened Bao Down is why no one thought to do it sooner. The quick-service eatery from industry vets (and brothers-in-law) Matthew Adolfo and Greg Edwards specializes in myriad unconventional renditions of the bao—ostensibly an Asian variant of the soft taco, in which a pliant, lightly sweet steamed “bun” (actually more or a disc) takes the place of a tortilla. The fillings here buck tradition in consistently delicious ways; we’re especially taken with Two Worlds Collide, in which a duo of pork belly (one braised and tender, the other crisp-skinned) mingles with jalapeño, scallions, and the Korean fermented-chili condiment gochujang. Almost as addictive is the Jaws bao, starring coconut-crusted catfish and a supporting cast of kimchi tartar sauce, microgreens, and Thai vinaigrette. Located across from Maple Tree Square, Bao Down’s future is assured as a must-stop for Gastown’s lunchtime hordes as well as late-night club-goers seeking to cut their hangover off at the pass (it’s open until 2am Fridays and Saturdays). All baos and sides top out at $6, while more substantial “street sandwiches” are $10-$12. Bao Down 12 Powell St., 778-379-3611 Baodown.ninja