Richmond's Chef Tony Seafood Restaurant still serves generous portions (with prices to match!), but now takes a more sophisticated approach.

When Chef Tony first opened, it drew immediate gasps for its attention-seeking decor and prices, ushering a wave of Big China restaurants (along with Peninsula and Fortune Terrace). But these restaurants eventually have to find a place with local diners or remain an exotic, unprofitable sideshow. Dinner at Chef Tony now features sophisticated farmhouse dishes that reflect better local ingredients and sensibilities.

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Ling cod tail and sweet kabocha squash is served in a bubbling hot pot. The sour brininess of pork steamed with house-salted lemons is perfect with rice. The order-ahead black truffle (yes, we know) roasted chicken is one of the best you'll ever have—roasted to order, crispy, and succulent. For dessert, their warm Malay cake is rich with dark sugar, but ethereally light.

Though Chef Tony still has its share of super spenders, the room is also filled with families for whom their generous portion sizes (with prices to match, unfortunately) give a sense of everyday plenty. 

Chef Tony Seafood Restaurant

101–4600 No 3 Rd., Richmond cheftonycanada.com

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