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Standardbearer Bishop’s (Gold) won the category with exquisite stone’s-throw food that felt effortlessly exuberant. For C (Silver), 2009 was a triple treat of Ocean Wise’s national expansion, Robert Clark’s sourcing of the rare and the ethical, and chef de cuisine Quang Dang’s innovation; Dang’s departure (for the Met) is leavened by the return of Clark to the grill. Blue Water (Bronze) plays West Coast against Asia, building exquisite dishes of cleanly wrought flavour from the ocean’s bounty. At West (Honourable Mention), departed chef Warren Geraghty was hailed for “great ingredients, technical perfection, and generosity of spirit.” Yuzu-marinated Vancouver Island octopus and tian of Dungeness crab were delicacy incarnate. The menu at Raincity Grill (Honourable Mention) expresses regional love with unflinching delight.