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Dynasty Seafood (Gold) has been able to innovate while holding true to Cantonese dim sum classics-there’s that touch of truffle oil in its mushroom dumplings, or the slight lemon scent in its barbecue pork pastries. Judges insist you get the roasted pork topped with house-made pickles. Golden Paramount (Silver) has a treasure in chef May Chau, who turns out classic Hong Kong dim sum. Go for her delicate Dungeness crab and diced pork dumpling-as one judge had it, “that dish is absolutely ethereal on the tongue.” Meanwhile, her black sesame seed egg tart is “creepy and elegant at the same time.” And a daikon spring roll elevates the humble radish to a creamy, sweet new level. Neptune Seafood (Bronze) brings a punch of glamour to the dim sum scene; they play around more with dishes and entice a shiny, chatty crowd. One judge hailed them for bringing “more crunch and pop” to the table.