The Best Thing I Ate All Week: Forage’s Cheese Puff

This surprising contender might just be the best dessert in Vancouver.

This surprising contender might just be the best dessert in Vancouver.

When Forage‘s chef de cuisine Welbert Choi was introduced to me as the “inventor of the cheese puff,” I didn’t really think much of it. I assumed it was a Bridget Jones-style party introduction, where you graciously offer a small tidbit of information to help your guests spark conversation.But once dessert came around and this aforementioned puff landed on my plate, I understood that this was less of an obligatory fun fact and more of a notification that I was in the presence of a pastry genius.It’s a dish that’s not as iconic as a Notte’s diplomat cake or as decadent as a chocolate dumpling, but with quiet dignity, this humble puff—light as air, stuffed with creamy fromage frais and housemade gin-spiked blueberries—might just be a contender for the city’s best dessert.Slightly savoury, perfectly sweet and accompanied by classic vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of cordial, it’s enough to make me want to start introducing myself as someone who has met the inventor of the Forage cheese puff.Cheese puff, $13 at Forage (1300 Robson St.)