Cupcake Thief Breaks Into Vancouver Bakery, Cleans Up Glass, Takes Selfies and Leaves
Hot Ticket: An Amazing Five-Course Asian Heritage Wine Dinner in Vancouver
9 Hot Spots To Get Spot Prawns in Vancouver in 2023
Our 2023 Sommelier of the Year Franco Michienzi of Elisa Steakhouse Shares His Top Wine Picks
We’ve Scored a Major Discount for VanMag Readers at the Best Wine Festival in Town
We’ve Found the Rosé of the Summer
Everything You Wanted to Know About That Pink Digital Light Installation in the West End
5 Things to Do in Vancouver This Week (May 22-28)
They Never Learn: Jurassic World Live Comes to Vancouver This Week
Wellness in Whistler-Your Ultimate Early Summer Retreat
Local Summer Getaway: 3 Beautiful Okanagan Farm Tours
Local Summer Getaway: Golfing at Alberta’s Crowsnest Pass
The Latest in Cutting-Edge Kitchen Appliances
7 Spring-y Shopping Picks, From a Lightweight Jacket to a Fresh Face Cleanser
Is There a Distinctly “Vancouver” Watch?
The eruption-inspired roll from this vegan Yaletown restaurant is a pretty spectacular example of how awesome plant-based dining can be.
Purists might argue that vegan sushi isn’t really sushi at all. And part of me agrees—I’ll eat a kappa roll if it’s the only thing left on Party Tray B, sure, but I’ll take raw fish over veggies any day. I’ve never had a fish-free roll that compared.
Well, not until I tried the vegan sushi at Nightshade earlier this week. The plant-based Yaletown restaurant is just over a year old, and has recently launched a vegan (and gluten-free) dish called the tempura crunch sushi roll. And this thing is a monster.
Shortly after the roll arrived at our table, my dinner date and I both gave up trying to eat it with chopsticks. The tempura-coated nori was evading capture, so I grabbed one the old-fashioned way (hands) and couldn’t help but observe: “Holy shit, this is heavy.”
The rolls are both large and dense—according to chef Chanthy Yen, the dish was inspired by a volcano. There’s a gorgeous red pepper tartare topping the roll, along with a crunchy black sesame potato “coral” that looks kind of like burnt debris you’d scrape off a pan, but tastes delicious. Inside is a sweet smoked maple tofu (supplied by Oomé, a local Vancouver brand) and pillowy sweet potato.
I ate my first piece of the roll in one bite and my second in two, and can report there’s simply no way to consume this beautiful beast while maintaining lady-like elegance. Who cares? The dish is so rich in texture (not to mention colour) and has the same fishy spirit of regular sushi. In fact, it’s complex and inventive and fun: exactly what sushi is meant to be.
It might not be traditional, but you can’t stop a volcano.
Tempura Crunch Sushi Roll, $18
1079 Mainland St.