Weekend Getaway: It’s Finally Ucluelet’s Time in the Spotlight

Those looking for a nature-focused Vancouver Island adventure might be tempted to book a trip to Tofino, which is famously and lovingly known for its surfing, its food, and its laid-back attitude. But its neighbouring city of Ucluelet—its little sister, if you will—is becoming a destination in its own right (cue Ashlee Simpson’s “Shadow”). Located about a 30-minute drive from Tofino (or about two and a half from Nanaimo), Ucluelet—or Ukee, as it’s referred to among those in the know, probably because it’s less intimidating than trying to figure out how to pronounce its real name—is growing up in some very exciting ways.

Leading that charge is Pluvio Restaurant and Rooms: a boutique inn and adjoining fine-dining restaurant run by husband-and-wife team Warren Barr and Lily Verney-Downey. Opened in 2019, Pluvio has become synonymous with Uclulet, with many people making the trek to the tiny town (population: 2,066, according to the most recent census data) from other parts of the Island and even the mainland and beyond just to eat there. That, according to the duo, is both an immense amount of pressure and an incredible honour. And at the end of the day, it’s exactly what they’d hoped for when they decided that this was where they’d open their business.

“We wanted to find a community that had the potential to grow into something like Tofino, that could become a tourist destination,” says Verney-Downey, “but that wasn’t necessarily there yet, and that we could afford to get into, so that we could be part of that growth. Ucluelet is growing, and it is growing differently than Tofino and Whistler and other places. It’s really growing uniquely in its own way, focusing on sustainable tourism and the amazing outdoors that we’ve got here.”

Find out more about the amazing outdoors—and everything else this town has to offer—below.

Where to stay in Ucluelet

For something intimate and boutique, Pluvio’s onsite hotel has just four rooms that are designed with modern touches (think: heated bathroom floors) and Pacific Northwest motifs (the Crab room, for instance, comes outfitted in adorable crustacean wallpaper). Each room has a king bed, a private balcony, Tofino Soap Company amenities, a tea and coffee station (French press, too—a small but notable luxury), and a mini fridge pre-stocked with breakfast bento boxes.

Alternatively, there’s also The Nami Project, a highly Instagrammable hotel promoting “slow living,” and Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, a larger property jutting out over Ukee’s rocky cliffside.

Where to eat in Ucluelet

Perhaps it goes without saying at this point, but we’ll say it anyway: a trip to Ucluelet is not complete without a dinner at Pluvio. The restaurant’s exceptional service starts the second that a guest walks in the door: in something of a magic trick, every staff member knows every diner’s name, from the person who’s greeting at the front to the bartender who’s running drinks.

“It really does go a long way to have people’s names,” says Barr, who heads up the kitchen. “Listening to our guests is a big one, too. We really want our team to have enough time to listen to our guests, because if you actually listen, it’s easy to have a conversation with as opposed to just delivering information.”

Then there’s the food itself, which is Michelin-worthy (mysterious Michelin judges, are you reading this??). Indulge in the seasonal five-course tasting menu, which may include such delights as caramelized sablefish with Fraser Valley rice congee, pear, mushroom xo sauce, and pear, in a burst of addicting umami; Island-grown pork with parsnips, barley, toasted hazelnuts, and black apple butterscotch (comforting, warming, and surprising); and a truly standout truffle waffle with Avalon Dairy cheddar and quince, which is decadent yet somehow not too truffle-y, and altogether fun. And for a final bow, guests get to “forage” for petit fours that are delicately hidden in a box filled with shells and rocks. That sense of play is key to Pluvio’s success.

“We love dining; we love travelling around the world, going to some of the best restaurants in the world—but we also can find that style of dining to be quite stuffy and quite oppressive and kind of exclusive,” says Verney-Downey, who runs the restaurant front of house as well as the inn. “And so we wanted it to be a restaurant where we can still aim to deliver the highest level of food and service that we can, but for it to be fun and approachable and enjoyable.”

To supplement a Pluvio dining experience, consider Ukee Snack Shack, which serves up comfort food like mozzarella sticks, smash burgers, and onion rings; or there’s Ukee Poke for those who want a vibrant bowl of fresh fish and vibrant vegetables. For coffee, The Foggy Bean is the place to be(an), while great craft beer can be found at Ucluelet Brewing Company. For brunch or lunch, The Break offers cafe favourites like shakshuka and a bagel with lox, alongside freshly-made pastries including cookies and croissants (tip: take a loaf of sourdough to go).

What to do in Ucluelet

With its remote location on the Ucluelet Peninsula of Vancouver Island’s west (and wet) coast, Ukee is a prime spot for storm watching. Unlike Tofino’s sandy beaches, Ukee has a jagged and rocky coastline—it’s all drama here, and there’s truly nothing quite like watching gigantic waves theatrically crashing against the black shore.

Consider walking part of the Wild Pacific Trail; the Lighthouse Loop is an easy 2.6-kilometre circle that offers some breathtaking viewpoints along the coast (and yes, there is a lighthouse, and yes, sometimes the waves reach the top of it). For a guided expedition (um, just not during a storm, please), Hello Nature offers kayaking tours, while Cameron Ocean Adventures takes adventurers out on the ocean to spot whales.

All that fun, you can still be in bed by 10. This is a small town, after all.