Best Thai 2010

When life gives you lemons, says Angus An, make oysters with lemongrass. Gastropod, An’s former bistro, was retooled and reThai’d for the recession and emerged as Maenam (Gold): innovative, authentic, unapologetic in ingredients and spicing. At Salathai (Silver), som tum (papaya, chili, lime salad) and the seafood-coconut curry of gaeng pa-nang are authenticity on a plate. Category stalwart Montri’s (Bronze) places for warmth of spice: “grilled beef yum-nua sets the palate ablaze.” Newcomer Tangthai (Honourable Mention) packs in the thrifty for lunch, but dinner is when the kitchen truly shines. Larb moo (minced pork salad) arrives in four-alarm glory.